Cute and disturbing.

It's been a crazy ten days. The program manager is visiting from Ottawa so we (the seminar coordinators) have brought her down south to show her our field sites. This has meant a lot of travel packed into too few days. It's been Hanoi-Saigon-Tra Vinh-Saigon-Phan Thiet-Mui Ne-Saigon-Hanoi. Yikes. I feel exhausted and stressed out by the amount of work that still lays ahead of us.

On another note, my favourite quote of the week comes from a Vietnamese student...

"Vietnamese students are loved because they are cute and disturbing."

Speaking of disturbing, check out the creature below that landed on my pillow the other night as I was working on my laptop. It took at least 5 vigorous whacks to bring this beast down. It was a super bug. Super big, super armoured and super scary. I fear that by killing it, I may have unwittingly started some man-vs-bug war...surely these bugs will be the victors. And I can't even hide under my pillow.

Highway 4

I was skeptical that I'd find a restaurant near my place in Hanoi that could consistently satisfy the needs of a vegetarian. I'm so happy that I've found Highway 4 Restaurant! It's literally a one-block walk and has become my go-to place for dinner. Here's what last night's dinner looked like:

The location I went to is at 25 Bat Sue, but there are 4 other locations in Hanoi. They have an extensive menu with lots of interesting options.

I'm hooked on the salad pictured above. Ah, the Spicy and Sour Green Mango Salad. It's dreamy. So far, I've gone for dinner here 3 times in less than a week. The place has great atmosphere and lots of cool art throughout its 3 floors. It's even been mentioned in the New York Times.

At some point, I'm hoping to take the cooking classes they offer. I'll let you know how it goes.

Ten things I had to travel all the way to Vietnam to figure out.

1. Pho is not pronounced “fo” but rather, “fuh.”

2. When they say the temperature is 35 C and feels like 47 C with humidity, what they actually mean is that your brain and body are convinced that it’s 55 C.

3. I really do like taro.

4. Patrick was right – cotton is best. Wicking fabrics don’t really wick in this kind of heat. (refer to #2)

5. There are no limits to how big and curly my hair can get.

6. Always carry electrolyte powder. Always.

7. Crossing the street unharmed is not a human right.

8. In some places it is logical to have an extremely strict motorcycle helmet law but to allow families of 5 to ride on one scooter.

9. It's possible for a woman with 50 live ducks in baskets to ride on the back of a motorcycle.

10. It’s as I suspected - Nestle is taking over the world.

Lao Eats

I must admit Laos has been a food reprieve from meaty Hanoi. I've gone on a bit of a food rampage and am feeling rather gluttonous. Guilty, gluttonous but happy.

Here are some of my foody-goody experiences from Vientiane...

Street-side fruit shakes near Samsenthai Road...(I highly recommend the mango...and the coconut...and the papaya...and...)

The humble little Taj Mahal restaurant in a little alley behind the National Cultural Hall serves up a mean aloo prantha (Indian bread stuffed with spicy potatoes)...it's appropriately greasy and heavy...and a nap after consumption is a must.

Fathima's has great bhaingan bartha (roasted eggplant curry) and some mighty fine chapatis (Indian flat bread)...all washed down with a not-to-sweet lassi (a drink for the gods - divine, frothy, yougurty goodness)...

Conveniently, Noy's Fruit Heaven was located right beside my hotel. The choices for fruity shakes are endless. Noy definitely deserves a place in heaven.

The Shade Restaurant along Fa Ngum Road filled my need for some good Middle Eastern food. The baba ghanoush was wonderfully spiced with ground sumac and a smattering of freshly chopped cilantro...all washed down with a refreshing lime shake.

The French influence is quite evident in Laos - and very noticeably in the cuisine. I just had to indulge in a mille feuille. It was one of the best I've ever had. If only I could remember which cafe I purchased it at...

It must seem weird that I've not talked about local Lao food. Well, the body wants what the body wants. And to keep this one ticking, I need at least one dose of Indian food per week. However, after I'd filled up on good Indian eats, I did have a great Laotian meal at Lao Kitchen on Hengboun Road.

I tried the laab. Laab means 'good fortune' and it's pretty much a required dish for celebrations and important events. I think every time I eat it's an important event so it seemed fitting.

I had the vegetarian version made with tofu, soy sauce, lime, red onion, chilli, roasted onion, mint and basil. It was served alongside some long beans (my fave), sliced cucumber and a basket of sticky rice. It was awesome and I highly recommend it!

I will leave Laos with a full belly and happy memories.

Video: Vientiane, Laos

Wowed in Lao

I’m in love with Laos. I was worried that I’d romanticized my memories of Laos and I’d be disappointed. I’m going to date myself, but I was here back in 1998 on an overland trip from Singapore-Malaysia-Thailand-Cambodia-Laos. I can’t believe the trip was completely unplanned and by way of trains, buses and hitchhiking in the back of pickup trucks. Those days are over. I’m much lazier now. This time I paid up for the luxury of flying and pre-booked a hotel. I’m definitely getting old.

It’s a quick 50-minute flight from Hanoi and the easiest visa-on-entry process I’ve ever experienced. Fill in form. Pay $42. Stamp passport. Visa issued. It took less than 5 minutes.

I’m surprised at how little has changed here. Vientiane still feels like a town and to think of it as a capital city is a stretch of the imagination. The streets are quite, the people gentle, and the pace is relaxed – all the opposite of Hanoi. It’s nice to have a break from the ceaseless honking. It’s nice to cross the street and not feel like it’s a major endeavor. It’s nice to be able to hear yourself think. It’s nice to have the concept of vegetarianism understood. Don't get me wrong - I like Vietnam, but I the last two weeks have been at a frantic pace in hectic cities.

Last night, I watched a beautiful, black, stormy sky roll into Vientiane. I wandered around the quiet streets thinking about how romantic it is here in Laos. Even strolling around the streets alone you can’t help but feel the romance. There was a lovely cool rain and I was in bliss.

So, as I sit here in a café, gazing at the Mekong river and sipping a sublime lime shake, I’ll share some highlights of my brief long-weekend here in Laos…

Monks on the streets…there’s something deeply comforting about seeing monks in their saffron robes…

The beautiful Buddhist temples and stuppas scattered throughout the city…

Seeing almost as many bicycles as scooters…

Having an excellent massage to finally work out that kink in my shoulder from 2 weeks ago. I went to a place that employs the visually-impaired. My masseur, Khamlai, was amazing!

Seeing the variety of goods in the backs of trucks…

Services that give pause for thought…(I have to admit, I did consider the #12 and for 25,000 kip it seemed like a steal...)

And life all around...

Cute girl...

Flowers for temple offering...

Rice vendor at market...

Roadside fruit vendor...

Broom vendor...

Wow...

Laundry drying in front of house...

Sidewalk shoe-smith...

At the food market...something with fur still on it...it scared me...

Rice-container vendor...

I will definitely be back to revisit more of beautiful Laos.

Horrors of War

Obliteration. Genocide. Devastation. Annihilation.

These are the words that float through my mind as I walk through the Aggression War Crimes gallery at the War Remnants Museum in Hanoi. The feelings that course through my heart are equally strong.

Horror. Shock. Anger. Rage. Hopelessness. Sadness. Numbness.

Visiting this museum has been the single most powerful experience thus far in my trip to Vietnam. I was accompanied by Nam, a young student from Tra Vinh province who volunteered to guide Karl and me through the museum so we could learn more about the American War. As we walked through the Agent Orange Aftermath gallery, Nam kept his eyes fixated on me, watching my reactions.

I won’t describe the photos I saw and the text I read because I don’t know where to begin.

I can share with you how I felt – desperate to make sense of the images I was faced with, searching to understand how such events could take place and be tolerated, and trying, trying, trying to understand the horrors the Vietnamese people like Nam’s parents and grandparents witnessed and lived through.

I don’t know what else to say.