Lao Eats

I must admit Laos has been a food reprieve from meaty Hanoi. I've gone on a bit of a food rampage and am feeling rather gluttonous. Guilty, gluttonous but happy.

Here are some of my foody-goody experiences from Vientiane...

Street-side fruit shakes near Samsenthai Road...(I highly recommend the mango...and the coconut...and the papaya...and...)

The humble little Taj Mahal restaurant in a little alley behind the National Cultural Hall serves up a mean aloo prantha (Indian bread stuffed with spicy potatoes)...it's appropriately greasy and heavy...and a nap after consumption is a must.

Fathima's has great bhaingan bartha (roasted eggplant curry) and some mighty fine chapatis (Indian flat bread)...all washed down with a not-to-sweet lassi (a drink for the gods - divine, frothy, yougurty goodness)...

Conveniently, Noy's Fruit Heaven was located right beside my hotel. The choices for fruity shakes are endless. Noy definitely deserves a place in heaven.

The Shade Restaurant along Fa Ngum Road filled my need for some good Middle Eastern food. The baba ghanoush was wonderfully spiced with ground sumac and a smattering of freshly chopped cilantro...all washed down with a refreshing lime shake.

The French influence is quite evident in Laos - and very noticeably in the cuisine. I just had to indulge in a mille feuille. It was one of the best I've ever had. If only I could remember which cafe I purchased it at...

It must seem weird that I've not talked about local Lao food. Well, the body wants what the body wants. And to keep this one ticking, I need at least one dose of Indian food per week. However, after I'd filled up on good Indian eats, I did have a great Laotian meal at Lao Kitchen on Hengboun Road.

I tried the laab. Laab means 'good fortune' and it's pretty much a required dish for celebrations and important events. I think every time I eat it's an important event so it seemed fitting.

I had the vegetarian version made with tofu, soy sauce, lime, red onion, chilli, roasted onion, mint and basil. It was served alongside some long beans (my fave), sliced cucumber and a basket of sticky rice. It was awesome and I highly recommend it!

I will leave Laos with a full belly and happy memories.

Video: Vientiane, Laos

Wowed in Lao

I’m in love with Laos. I was worried that I’d romanticized my memories of Laos and I’d be disappointed. I’m going to date myself, but I was here back in 1998 on an overland trip from Singapore-Malaysia-Thailand-Cambodia-Laos. I can’t believe the trip was completely unplanned and by way of trains, buses and hitchhiking in the back of pickup trucks. Those days are over. I’m much lazier now. This time I paid up for the luxury of flying and pre-booked a hotel. I’m definitely getting old.

It’s a quick 50-minute flight from Hanoi and the easiest visa-on-entry process I’ve ever experienced. Fill in form. Pay $42. Stamp passport. Visa issued. It took less than 5 minutes.

I’m surprised at how little has changed here. Vientiane still feels like a town and to think of it as a capital city is a stretch of the imagination. The streets are quite, the people gentle, and the pace is relaxed – all the opposite of Hanoi. It’s nice to have a break from the ceaseless honking. It’s nice to cross the street and not feel like it’s a major endeavor. It’s nice to be able to hear yourself think. It’s nice to have the concept of vegetarianism understood. Don't get me wrong - I like Vietnam, but I the last two weeks have been at a frantic pace in hectic cities.

Last night, I watched a beautiful, black, stormy sky roll into Vientiane. I wandered around the quiet streets thinking about how romantic it is here in Laos. Even strolling around the streets alone you can’t help but feel the romance. There was a lovely cool rain and I was in bliss.

So, as I sit here in a café, gazing at the Mekong river and sipping a sublime lime shake, I’ll share some highlights of my brief long-weekend here in Laos…

Monks on the streets…there’s something deeply comforting about seeing monks in their saffron robes…

The beautiful Buddhist temples and stuppas scattered throughout the city…

Seeing almost as many bicycles as scooters…

Having an excellent massage to finally work out that kink in my shoulder from 2 weeks ago. I went to a place that employs the visually-impaired. My masseur, Khamlai, was amazing!

Seeing the variety of goods in the backs of trucks…

Services that give pause for thought…(I have to admit, I did consider the #12 and for 25,000 kip it seemed like a steal...)

And life all around...

Cute girl...

Flowers for temple offering...

Rice vendor at market...

Roadside fruit vendor...

Broom vendor...

Wow...

Laundry drying in front of house...

Sidewalk shoe-smith...

At the food market...something with fur still on it...it scared me...

Rice-container vendor...

I will definitely be back to revisit more of beautiful Laos.