Weekend Getaway

I had an interesting weekend, with a visit to both Zomba and Liwonde National Park.

I thought it was time to try a solo trip into Zomba using the public transportation system. I made plans with Anna to meet in Zomba Town for lunch on Saturday. From my home on the MIE campus, it’s a 30-minute walk to the main road, where public transport runs. I left home later than expected, so by the time I reached the main road, the sun was already high overhead, and I was covered in a film of sweat and a layer of dust. A minibus (a minivan) quickly pulled up to the side of the road and I yelled out “Zomba?” to the driver’s assistant (the guy who scuttles people into the van and collects their money), to which his reply was an enthusiastic “Yes!”

I climbed on board. A word about these minibuses – they are in a state of utter disrepair to say the least. Usually basic things like seatbelts, windows, instrument panel, fuel gage, etc. do not work. Often, widows are missing, and assortments of seats taken from other vehicles are installed. There’s usually 1.5-2 bodies squeezed onto a seat meant for one person, so in the end, roughly 15-20 people are packed in very snuggly. Add in the sacks of flour, suitcases, baskets of vegetables and cages of chickens and you have an authentic Malawian experience.

The 15 km journey on the main road took 30 minutes when I was travelling to Zomba, and more than an hour when I came back home. Why? Well, there’s a fuel crisis in Malawi, so there never seems to be enough fuel in any vehicle. At one point, we ran out of gas, so the driver grabbed what looked to be a one-liter bottle from under his seat and added it to the vehicle. The vehicle then refused to start, so a few of the passengers got out to do a push-start. We were back on the road, but only briefly. We then stopped at a gas station to get more fuel, but they didn’t have any fuel at all, so had to go to a second gas station. And then the driver decided to have one of the tires changed. On the way back home, it was an equally slow trip – with many stops along the way to wait for more passengers to fill up seats. I was shuffled from one vehicle to another twice during the trip, so that vehicles were at full capacity. With the stifling heat, pressing bodies and constant delays, it was a tiring 15 km drive. When I got dropped off in Domasi, it was another 30 minute walk along dusty paths back to the house, and this left me questioning how often I really want to travel into Zomba – though it was lovely to see Anna and I really enjoyed hearing about how she is settling into her placement at Zomba Mental Hospital. She reported that for over 350 patients, there are 2 night nurses and for the 97 patients in the acute ward, there is only one nurse! The understaffing and lack of resources is astounding. I’m very curious to see how her (and Nick’s) work will unfold in the coming months.

I was planning to stay home, relax and read on Sunday, but was unexpectedly invited by the American Read Malawi staff to join them on an excursion to Liwonde National Park. I’ve been very eager to visit one of Malawi’s national parks or wildlife reserves, so I jumped at the opportunity!

Some quick info about Liwonde National Park:
- it’s 548 sq kilometers
- the park has python vines, mopane trees, countless baobab trees, reeds swamp, floodplain grasslands, tall grass savanna and wild flowers, including lilies and orchids
- the most prominent large mammals in the park are elephant (more than 900) and hippo (2000)
- the 2000 hippos live along 40km of the Shire River that cuts through the park and this is one of the densest hippo populations on the African continent
- crocodiles, impala, waterbuck, bushbuck, warthog, vervet monkeys and yellow baboons are very common
- there are some hyenas, leopards, and jackals
- African wild dog and lions have been hunted out but some from Mozambique do pass through the park
- there are 11 black rhinos in a guarded and fenced sanctuary in the park
- there are more than 400 bird species! It’s a birding paradise!

I have a feeling that the visit to this park will be one of the highlights of my time here in Malawi. It was an incredible experience, to see these animals in the wild –and so many of them as well!

The setting is absolutely spectacular – the massive, strangely-shaped baobas, the scorched earth with vein-like cracks, the cartoonish warthogs scurrying around with their tails in the air like antennas, the hippos peeking out of the water, the awe-inspiring stately elephants, the graceful impala bounding through the tall grass, the shockingly bright green, orange and blue birds flitting between leafless trees, the fish eagle diving into the water, and the 10-feet-high termite hills. It was amazing to be surrounded by so much life.

Some photos from Liwonde National Park…

Sign at entrance to Liwonde National Park, Malawi.

Warthog mother with her babies.

From a distance, animals along the bank of the Shire River.

A female impala.

A male sable antelope.

A herd of impala.

Not sure what this is - maybe a waterbuck or kudu? 

These photos were taken with a zoom lens, so we were not as close to the elephants as it appears.

Elephant.

African openbill.

A terrapin.

Malawi has somewhere between 650 to 750 species of birds.  I'm not sure what these ones are!

African fish eagle.

A male greater kudu.

Impala grazing along the river.

Peeking hippos.

Hippos with giant termite hill in the background.

Arithmetic, Punishment and Salad.

Here’s a bit of a random posting…

Things I like about Malawi...names. I love the names Malawian people use. One of the other volunteers, Mark (from Australia) and I were talking about names recently. He said that while he was in Zimbabwe, he met local children named Arithmetic, Punishment and Salad. He said that the parents were very poor and illiterate and used the only English word they knew. In Malawi, many of the people have Christian names, like Matthews, Marks, and Samson. There are other, more Malawian names like Mphatso, Rhodia, and Chimwemwe ( I love that one!). And then there are some interesting names such as Loveness, Promise, and Bright. The people I meet are surprised and amused by my name. In Chichewa, the main local language, 'Moni' means 'hi' or 'hello.' I've never seen my name in so much print! Of course, this is amusing to me because I never see it in print other than on personal documents back home. As a child, I remember my friends having stickers, pencils and other trinkets with their names printed on them - 'Colleen' 'Lisa' and 'Sandra' - and I felt slightly envious and a bit embarrassed by my strange name. I think the closest I came was when one Christmas, a friend gave me a key chain with the "ca" blacked out on a keychain that said 'Monica.' Well, I guess Malawi has made up for that!

Another thing I like about Malawi...the people. Everyone I've met has been warm, friendly and kind. And I've met a lot of people, not only at work, but also in my wanderings around Domasi. Each time I venture out, I run into someone who looks at me curiously, breaks into a huge smile, and greets me warmly. This is usually followed by profuse handshaking, how-are-you’s, and a lot of thanking each other. It sure helps to feel welcomed into the community! The children are great too! They start off shy but their curiosity quickly takes over and then they scamper after me, usually trying to talk to me in Chichewa, to which I reply in English after exhausting the few Chichewa words I know. So, we continue on, smiling and giggling at each other. I’ve had a few of the braver ones yell at me as I’m walking away, “Give me my money!” or “Give me my watch!” Clearly, grammar and syntax are very different in Chichewa. It’s all very entertaining.

Work is starting to take off, if somewhat slowly. I’ve been tasked with editing a research study investigating factors that contribute to the low participation of women in leadership positions in education in Malawi, South Africa and Zambia. I’m learning a lot while I work through this document.

I’ve also had my first glimpse of the work Read Malawi is doing. For the past two days, MIE has been hosting a workshop introducing primary teachers, head teachers and primary education advisers to the phases of project implementation and roll out. There are over 100 participants, and the aim is to engage these educators in creating a culture of readers in Malawi. Read Malawi is a book development program sponsored by USAID targeting the development and distribution of a minimum of 2.5 million books.

Currently, the classrooms in Malawi are in an appalling state. Many classrooms have 150 students and only one teacher. Most classrooms are without basic furniture, chalkboards and books. That’s why this project is so important – in order for learners to become literate, they must have quality materials to read and quantities that ensure frequent opportunities for individual and group engagement. The project also aims to provide guidance to teachers so that their students are successful in reading these materials, as well as to set expectations for making connections to literacy in their communities – and hopefully, this will lead them on the path to envisioning themselves as authors of future texts. All of the materials are authored and developed in Malawi for Malawian children! This is an important element in building local capacity. Read Malawi believes in good stories, skilled teachers, enjoying and learning go hand in hand, and promoting literate lives inside and outside of schools.

That’s all for now! More to come soon…

My Cooking Buddy

Bobbles sitting in the front doorway leading into the kitchen.

The local kids at play in Domasi!

Beautiful children in my neighbourhood.

A visit to the village of Malosa, a 15 minute drive north of Domasi. Those are some big trees.

Two Weeks In

The in-country training for new volunteers is over and I'm in Domasi now. During the last day of training, we were sent out on our own to learn how to use the transport system and fend for ourselves in the market. I think we did fairly well considering all of us made it back to the meeting point without any major mishaps. The market was unlike anything I've seen in the past and definitely different than the markets of South-East Asia. For a capital city, it was surprisingly small, and other than the veggies and limited fruits, the majority of goods were used - everything from soccer balls to transistor radios.

The following morning, my employer (Malawi Institute of Education) sent a vehicle and driver to pick me up and transport me to Domasi. My fellow VSO volunteer and MIE coworker, Caleb, was also in Lilongwe, so he rode back to Domasi with me. Caleb is from Kenya and works in the media section of MIE. He also happens to be my new neighbour. After a week in Lilongwe, it was nice to finally see some of the countryside. The drive from Lilongwe to Domasi is roughly 3.5 hours (depending on road conditions, weather, and the driver). Before leaving Lilongwe, we did a bit of shopping in Lilongwe to buy some food supplies. I was thankful that we found an Indian grocery store! I stocked up on turmeric, cumin seeds, ghee and lentils - and even a thuva! I'm trying to stick to the local Malawian foods, but being vegetarian, it's a bit challenging at times, so my Indian foods and spices will serve as a useful backup.

From Lilongwe, we headed south through Balaka, and then west. It's the hot and dry season right now, so the terrain was brown, dusty, and fairly barren with scrubby brushes. We could see mountains in the distance, often with small villages scattered around them. The farmland was often blackened and sooty, as the last crops have been harvested and the remnants burned in order to prepare the soil for the next seeding. The most striking thing for me is the amount of people that are walking along the roadside. Everywhere you look, no matter how remote or how far between villages, you will see people walking. Everywhere, there are men, women, and children walking. It is rare to see bicycles and even more rare to see motorcycles, but you will see people walking everywhere you go.

We made a pit-stop along the way at a town called Lizulu to buy fresh fruits and vegetables. As soon as our vehicle stopped, we were swarmed with vendors eager to unload their products on us. We stocked up on tomatoes, cabbage, onions, and carrots. The fruits and veggies are very seasonal here, and there are no preservation methods, so you have to eat whatever is available, and eat it quickly! [Mariette - I wish you were here with your newly acquired canning skills!] The drive continued and I had my first glimpse of the great Shire River, which looked wide, flat and calm. I look forward to seeing the changes the wet season brings to the landscape.

We arrived in Domasi at around 5:30 pm, so I had a chance to look at the grounds around my new home before the sun fell. Darkness falls quickly here - there seems to a lovely soft light at sunset and a slight cooling in the air. You barely get to enjoy it when suddenly, you're enveloped in complete darkness. MIE has given me temporary housing (the director's house) until my permanent housing (the guesthouse) is sorted out. Almost all MIE staff live on campus. The director's house that I'm staying in is huge. It's meant for a family but sits vacant as the director has chosen to live in the nearby city of Zomba. I'm so thankful that it has running water (hot and cold!), electricity, and a real stove! The water seems to be consistent (though I'm boiling and then filtering it for drinking), but the electricity is erratic. It seems to vanish each day, sometimes for 30 minutes and sometimes for up to 8 hours. These power-outages have given me the chance to learn to bathe in the dark, prepare meals in the dark, and get ready for bed in the dark. [Mezaun - don't' read the rest of this paragraph, and skip the next one as well, as I fear you will never come and visit me!] Bathing in the dark was a bit traumatic as I've been having visitors in my bathtub. I'm had huge beetles, massive spiders, and each morning, I seem to find something bigger and more legged than the day before. After only a week, I'm not even surprised anymore - I open the bathroom door and say "Good morning. Who are you?" as I peer into the bathtub. Despite their daunting size, all the critters seem to be fairly passive and not that interested in me. And that's a good thing.

Speaking of critters, the grounds around the house, and the campus as a whole, are absolutely lovely! Huge trees that sway and rustle each morning when I wake up, and then become absolutely silent during the heat of mid-day. It's stifling, mind-numbing hot around mid-day and everything comes to a standstill in the 35 C temperature. There are monkeys that come out and climb the trees in the front yard. I've seen the most beautiful birds outside my kitchen window in the early mornings - bright red-headed woodpeckers, tiny weavers that make nests as if they were artists, and numerous others that I can't name. I wish I had a bird-book! Apparently, there are over 700 species of birds in Malawi. Each morning, I'm awakened by the neighbour's chickens who seem to like to hang out beneath my bedroom window at 4 a.m., the scratching of Caleb's turkeys, or a flying insect that seems to pass by my window at 4:30 a.m. I have never seen it, but it sounds like a helicopter. It's that loud. I'm not sure I actually want to see it. There are geckos, lizards, and lots and lots of insects - mostly large ones that look a bit frightening and seem to fly directly towards my head. I'm trying to take it all in stride. I'm trying not to panic. Taking lots of deep, long breaths. I'm convinced that they sense my fear and are just messing with me.

Last Sunday, Gay (Anna's roommate and VSO volunteer from Philippines) invited us for lunch in Zomba. Caleb, Issa (Caleb's guard) and I walked from the campus to the main road, about 20 minutes of walking along dusty, dirt paths that cut through the campus and then the surrounding farmland. We boarded a minibus (a battered minivan that's barely running, often requires a push-start, and somehow has got seating for 20 squished in it) and headed for Zomba, which is the nearest small city/large town. We had a lovely afternoon - a delicious lunch and great conversation with Gay, Anna, Nick, and some of Gay's friends who are also volunteering in Malawi in HIV/AIDS programs.

I officially started work this Monday. And then I officially took the day off on Tuesday. One of the MIE staff, Ester, took me to the Commons Room (canteen) for lunch and midway through the meal, I ended up breaking a filling on a stone in the rice. On Tuesday, I was taken to Blantyre, the commercial centre about 1.5 hours from Domasi, to see a dentist at the Seventh Day Adventist Hospital. I ended up having the entire filling removed and a new one put in place. I think the jarring, wobbly drive back to Domasi along the pot-holed road was more painful than the time spent in the dentist's chair. When we got back to the house, we found out that a tree had fallen on the power line which meant that there was no electricity for the rest of the day and night. I seem to have run into some bad luck those first few days.

My first week at work has been focused on becoming acquainted with MIE staff and the campus. There are close to 200 staff and I've been taken around to many of the departments by my boss, Max. Max heads up the Materials Production department and is a kind and friendly man, with a great sense of humour. I anticipate that I'm going to enjoy working with him and his team! My office is still begin sorted out with furniture and supplies, but I am enjoying the little monkey that plays outside my window each morning. I think we are equally curious about each other. Once my office is ready, I'm looking forward to diving into work. The READ Malawi project, a joint initiative between University of Texas and MIE, is well underway with several children's books already completed. I'm looking forward to learning about how I can contribute to what looks to be a strong team.

Today is Friday and we have the day off. It's Mother's Day. I've spent the day reading [Carol - thanks for recommending "Don't Let's Go to the Dogs Tonight"!], and I'll eventually make my way to my office (a 3 minute walk from the house) so I can upload this post and check emails. This afternoon, Issa, Caleb and I are planning to go for a walk and explore the neighbourhood. I went for a walk yesterday in the late afternoon to explore on my own and found a maize mill, a prison, a group of men digging sand from the river (to be mixed with cement for construction), and a tailor all within 10 minutes of my house. I wandered off the main dirt path, down smaller pathways that led to clusters of small huts and shacks and introduced myself to some of the locals. They seem to be very friendly and curious, and I look forward to getting to know them better once my language skills improve as most of they do not speak English. I'm also hoping to build a relationship with the guards that are stationed at the house, and learn more through them. And the milk-lady! There is a lovely elderly woman that comes to the house a few times a week to deliver unpasteurized milk. She doesn't speak English, so we're having fun trying to communicate through charades and sign-language.

More photos to come soon...

I want a dongle!

Well, it seems that keeping in touch with family and friends is going to be an issue. I anticipated this, so I’m not too surprised – but I’m still disappointed. The internet connection is very poor in the capital city, so I imagine it will be even worse once I get to the small town of Domasi. It seems that my best option is to get a dongle. I’m not entirely sure what it is or how it works, but it seems to be a gadget you purchase from one of the 3 internet providers that plugs into your laptop and then you can purchase an internet plan or minutes. I’m hoping it helps with connectivity as I’ve only been here 3 days and I’m already frustrated when trying to connect with friends back home.

In other news…

The in-country training continues! We had another very busy day today. My brain is starting to feel rather full from all the information that is being thrown at us – and I’m fearful of how little I will eventually retain! We reviewed the fundraising policy (apparently, some of us may be asked by our partner organizations to raise funds for their projects), registered with our embassies, toured the VSO Malawi office, discussed the 3-way partnership between VSO, the partner organization and the volunteer, reviewed logistics of banking, housing, etc, and learned specifics about Malawian culture. Lots to learn and take in!

The VSO staff have been fabulous in organizing the training sessions and engaging local representatives from different organizations and sectors. They have put a lot of thought and effort into the training and it definitely comes through in the breadth and depth of topics we manage to cover each day. I’m confident that I will definitely feel more prepared by the end of this week when I set out for my placement! The other volunteers who are here with me are quickly becoming good friends and great resources! I’ve never been surrounded by so many doctors! We have 4 pediatricians, 2 general physicians, an emergency ward doctor, an end-of-life specialist, an abdominal surgeon, a psychiatrist, and about 5 others whose specialties I can’t remember! It’s fascinating to hear about the work they will be doing in Malawi and where they will be situated. I hope that once we are all settled, I’ll be able to visit some of them in their placements and see their work first-hand. I’m particularly interested in visiting Nick (a psychiatrist from the UK) and Anna (an occupational therapist from Scotland) at the Zomba Mental Hospital. Nick will be the only staff person there who is actually trained in psychiatry. The hospital is terribly understaffed and the conditions are extremely difficult and stressful. It sounds like they will be grateful to have him, especially since he has over 30 years of experience in his field. Anna is my roommate during the in-country training and it has been amazing to hear her stories about her work. She is bracing herself for what awaits at Zomba Mental Hospital, though from the sounds of it, she has worked in extreme conditions before. She spent some time volunteering as an occupational therapist at an orphanage in Tamil Nadu in India. She recalls that for over 150 orphans, there were only 3 workers. The conditions in the facility we shocking because of the lack of resources, with many of the babies heads being misshapen from being left laying in the same position for extended periods of time. She recalls it as being one of the most difficult things she has ever seen. Though I’ve only known her for a few days, she seems like an extraordinary individual and I’m sure she will rise to the challenges Malawi has in store for her! That’s one thing I quickly recognized in all my volunteering colleagues here in Malawi – everyone seems to exude such strength, resourcefulness and passion for helping others – it is both humbling and inspiring for me to be in the presence of these people!

And now for some pictures...

Outside of our hotel in the capital city of Lilongwe.

Inside our hotel which also serves as the training venue for our one week in-country training and orientation.

The VSO Malawi office.

We had a tour of the office to meet the local Malawian staff.

The view from the VSO office of 'downtown' Lilongwe. The tallest building in the capital is apparently 8 floors.

We were taken into the city centre of Lilongwe and shown some supermarkets where we could purchase food and dry goods. And apparently, poolcare - though most of us are hoping for running water, never mind a pool.

Beautiful trees along the streets. This picture doesn't do the tree flowers justice - they're actually a brilliant purple colour, so vivid that you just want to inhale and breathe in that gorgeous colour!

The journey...and arrival.

I'm here. Yes, I've finally reached Malawi. After months of preparation and weeks of anticipation and anxiety, I've reached my destination.

The journey here was relatively uneventful. From Calgary, I flew to London and then on to Johannesburg, which I quickly learned, everyone refers to as “Joburg.” I like that. From Joburg, it was on to Lilongwe, the capital city of Malawi. VSO staff met me at the airport and directed me to the waiting vehicle for transporting volunteers to the hotel. I was happy and excited to see that over 20 of us had arrived! We headed to the hotel, had about an hour to rest, and then attended a brief meeting with the VSO country director. After a quick dinner of local Malawian food (my first taste of nsima – a thick maize porridge that is the staple dish!), everyone decided it was best to sleep, so off we went to rest up for the next day.

The second day was spent in training. We began bright and early at 8 am and had a full day packed with information on safety & security, accommodation, finance, meeting the VSO office staff, language training (which depends on which part of Malawi you are going to as there are several local languages), and a 1-1 session with the program manager. VSO focuses on 4 different program areas in Malawi - education, health, secure livelihoods, and HIV/AIDS. In Malawi, the health and HIV/AIDS programs are the largest and most of the volunteers I arrived with will be working in these areas, as they are doctors. In the education area, there are only 2 new volunteers – Mark (from Australia) and myself. I think there are 9 other volunteers already in Malawi working in education.

After our training, we were taken for a visit into town. VSO staff helped us buy SIM cards and set up our mobile phones. Then we went to a few shops to see what was available, so we could begin planning what we need to buy or prepare for our new homes. I was shocked to see the amount and variety of goods available in the shops we went to. In hindsight, I may have over-packed as I anticipated I wouldn’t have access to many products I normally use. Also, I’m relieved to learn that I will not be alone! I am the only new volunteer with a placement in Domasi, which is very close to Zomba, the closest city (though it recently was a town). Two other new volunteers - Anna (an occupational therapist from the UK) and Nick (a psychiatrist also from the UK) - will be working at the mental hospital in Zomba. That gives me hope for friendship, support and some sort of a social life. I’m thankful that my placement will be near one of the most beautiful places in Malawi! My little guidebook says that Zomba is “often claimed to have been the most beautiful capital city anywhere in the British Empire.” At the start of our training, we introduced ourselves to the entire group and stated the location of our placement and then the VSO Malawian staff told us a bit about our location. Well, it sounds like one of the volunteers is headed to what the locals called the “Dust Bowl” and another is going to the “Armpit of Africa.” I really hope I get to visit them and see what that’s all about.