Traveling Light

Hunting in New York

2011-12-04T12:08:00.000-08:00

I have one month in New York. As with every other trip to one of my favourite cities, I feel the need to go on a hunt. Previous trips have focused on hunting for the best pizza slice in NYC...

...hands-down, Artichoke in East Village on 14th Street was the clear winner and has proven its first-place status in subsequent trips. I noticed they've had a few more locations pop up, but I've yet to try them. I hope they're equally good.

If one of these master pie-makers asked me to run away with him, I'd live out the rest of my days fat and happy.

One of my past trips was dedicated to finding the best cupcake which has to be that of Sweet Revenge on Carmine Street. I used a Red Velvet as my benchmark, and Sweet Revenge nailed it. Their's is called Crimson and Cream and it's made with raspberry red velvet cake and topped with cream cheese frosting.

They also do wine and cupcake pairings. Interesting. If you find yourself there, I highly recommend the Dirty cupcake (Valrhona cake with dark chocolate truffle. It's like love.) and the Not So Dirty (Valrhona chocolate cake with milk chocolate ganache. I'm having a long-term adulterous love-affair with this one.).

I think Tanoreen in the Bay Ridge area of Brooklyn has the best Middle Eastern food. How can a meal go wrong when this arrives at your table once you sit down? And you haven't even ordered yet.

And then your order arrives, your jaw hits the floor and you have to lift it so you can fill it with goodness like this...the Eggplant Napolean. It's simply divine.

So, what should this trip focus on?

Should I hunt for the best nachos?

Milkshake?

Pie? (For a while, I was convinced that I would happily be paid in pie instead of drawing a salary. That's how much I love pie.)

What about tacos?

Or dumplings?

Any ideas? What should the food focus be of this trip?

Leave me a comment if you come up with any brilliant food suggestions! I'll see if I can get some take-out for you.

Where in the world is Bobbles?

2011-12-04T11:06:00.000-08:00

I've been neglectful. Again. Many of you have emailed me over the past few months asking what Bobbles has been up to, and I've neglected to fill you in. It's been an exceptionally busy few months since the return from Vietnam. Yes, Bobbles is back from 'Nam though it appears he's trying to mislead you with the hat and map. Sneaky.

So, here's a quick run-down with a lot of photos and very little text. (I know that's the way you like it.)

Bobbles inadvertently ended up helping harvest cherries in the Okanagan in late July-early August.

Oddly, it was around the same time that he discovered his love for Late July cookies and crackers.

Summertime in the Okanagan was lovely, and Bobbles in his usual sociable way, made all sorts of friends...like this little guy....

...as well as a very international mix of fruit pickers that arrived from all over the world.

After all that hard work, Bobbles rewarded himself with his favourite thing - food. He got all snooty and attended a Chocolate Snobbery 101 class....

...and took a weekend trip to to very exotic Longview to enjoy the autumn colours.

The next three months were a whirlwind of three more trips to the Okanagan to check out the grapes, settling into a new job, and making 200 perogies in one over-ambitious day.

Oh, and add one trip to NYC in there, too.

Bobbles occupied Wall Street...

...hung out with Conan O'Brien...

...posed (nude) for an art class...

...and celebrated Halloween NYC-style.

I think that about covers it.

Video: Sapa & Area

2011-05-22T01:05:00.000-07:00

Some highlights from my trip to Sapa.

Sapa is Super!

2011-05-21T20:28:00.001-07:00

A weekend get-away to Sapa was good for the mind, body and spirit.

I'd heard and read so much about Sapa and it was high on my list of must-sees for Vietnam. The descriptions of this small town set in the mountains of norther Vietnam seem to always include phrases like "mystical mountain tops," "valley views that will make you swoon," "stunning, towering peaks," etc.

After having spent a short 3 days there, I must say that Sapa lived up to all these descriptions, as well as my high expectations. It is simply the loveliest place I've seen in Vietnam. The mountains really were stunning, I literally did swoon from the valley views, and yes - the mountain peaks do stun and tower before you.

In some ways, it reminded me of past visits to the gorgeous terraced rice paddies of Bali and the endless tea estates carved into the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia...but I found the Sapa region to be more...serene. There is definitely a stillness that settles into you...maybe it's the fact you can finally hear yourself think after the craziness of Hanoi...or maybe it's finally being able to fill your lungs with fresh air. I'm not sure what it is, but it's left me feeling calm and alive.

I boarded the Pumpkin Express for a 10-hour overnight journey from Hanoi to Lao Cai, a small town on the China-Vietnam border.

Snug but very comfy quarters. I found myself sharing the berth with a woman from Spain and a couple from New Zealand who all proved to be good company.

I spent a bit of time in the townsite of Sapa, wandering around the streets and taking it all in. The town square:

I was surprised at the number of people from the neighbouring minority communities who were in town selling their goods, like this woman from the Dzao tribe.

It's the summer season in Sapa, which means that the peaches and apricots are out. Apparently, this past March, it actually snowed in Sapa - a rare event. The cold weather killed much of the livestock and the fruit crops have also suffered.

As in much of Vietnam, the tourist industry is booming in Sapa. Unfortunately, much the

development isn't regulated, so all the developers seem to be hell-bent on trying to out-do each other for

the best views.

I heard that the weekends can get a bit crazy with hoards of Vietnamese tourists from Hanoi flocking to see the Saturday market. It's off-season now, so it didn't seem too bad - but I can only imagine what it'll be like once summer holidays begin.

To the right is a photo of an old wooden home. It seems that in the immediate vicinity of Sapa, these are disappearing at an alarming rate and being replaced by rather hideous-looking mega-hotels (many of which are backed by Chinese investors). Photo below of a new one mid-construction.

One of the main streets in Sapa...

A Dzao woman...

CAT CAT VILLAGE

Some images from my trip to Cat Cat village, home to about 600 Black H'Mong people.

SIN CHAI VILLAGE

Some images from my trip to Sin Chai village, home to about 300 Black H'Mong people.

The highlight of my trip was meeting and getting to know, Mah, a young Black H'Mong woman. I spent an entire day walking and chatting with her. She was so forthcoming, honest and willing to share her experiences. I hope to visit Sapa again, and I hope to meet Mah again.

And one final note...I've never been anywhere in the world that was so misty and foggy...I spent hours and hours just sitting in one place watching the incredible mist...it was absolutely magical and what I imagine the aurora borealis to be like, but in a misty reincarnation. At times it was such a thick fog that you could barely see 50 meters in front of you and at other times, it would suddenly lift and the sun would break through. The clouds and mist moved at an incredible speed and you could literally see it swooping down and then feel it across your body and then vanish...only to reappear a few minutes later in a completely new formation, swirling and dancing in front of you again. Amazing.

Cute and disturbing.

2011-05-18T01:36:00.000-07:00

It's been a crazy ten days. The program manager is visiting from Ottawa so we (the seminar coordinators) have brought her down south to show her our field sites. This has meant a lot of travel packed into too few days. It's been Hanoi-Saigon-Tra Vinh-Saigon-Phan Thiet-Mui Ne-Saigon-Hanoi. Yikes. I feel exhausted and stressed out by the amount of work that still lays ahead of us.

On another note, my favourite quote of the week comes from a Vietnamese student...

"Vietnamese students are loved because they are cute and disturbing."

Speaking of disturbing, check out the creature below that landed on my pillow the other night as I was working on my laptop. It took at least 5 vigorous whacks to bring this beast down. It was a super bug. Super big, super armoured and super scary. I fear that by killing it, I may have unwittingly started some man-vs-bug war...surely these bugs will be the victors. And I can't even hide under my pillow.

Highway 4

2011-05-06T22:48:00.000-07:00

I was skeptical that I'd find a restaurant near my place in Hanoi that could consistently satisfy the needs of a vegetarian. I'm so happy that I've found Highway 4 Restaurant! It's literally a one-block walk and has become my go-to place for dinner. Here's what last night's dinner looked like:

The location I went to is at 25 Bat Sue, but there are 4 other locations in Hanoi. They have an extensive menu with lots of interesting options.

I'm hooked on the salad pictured above. Ah, the Spicy and Sour Green Mango Salad. It's dreamy. So far, I've gone for dinner here 3 times in less than a week. The place has great atmosphere and lots of cool art throughout its 3 floors. It's even been mentioned in the New York Times.

At some point, I'm hoping to take the cooking classes they offer. I'll let you know how it goes.

Ten things I had to travel all the way to Vietnam to figure out.

2011-05-03T04:01:00.000-07:00

1. Pho is not pronounced “fo” but rather, “fuh.”

2. When they say the temperature is 35 C and feels like 47 C with humidity, what they actually mean is that your brain and body are convinced that it’s 55 C.

3. I really do like taro.

4. Patrick was right – cotton is best. Wicking fabrics don’t really wick in this kind of heat. (refer to #2)

5. There are no limits to how big and curly my hair can get.

6. Always carry electrolyte powder. Always.

7. Crossing the street unharmed is not a human right.

8. In some places it is logical to have an extremely strict motorcycle helmet law but to allow families of 5 to ride on one scooter.

9. It's possible for a woman with 50 live ducks in baskets to ride on the back of a motorcycle.

10. It’s as I suspected - Nestle is taking over the world.

Lao Eats

2011-05-02T20:56:00.000-07:00

I must admit Laos has been a food reprieve from meaty Hanoi. I've gone on a bit of a food rampage and am feeling rather gluttonous. Guilty, gluttonous but happy.

Here are some of my foody-goody experiences from Vientiane...

Street-side fruit shakes near Samsenthai Road...(I highly recommend the mango...and the coconut...and the papaya...and...)

The humble little Taj Mahal restaurant in a little alley behind the National Cultural Hall serves up a mean aloo prantha (Indian bread stuffed with spicy potatoes)...it's appropriately greasy and heavy...and a nap after consumption is a must.

Fathima's has great bhaingan bartha (roasted eggplant curry) and some mighty fine chapatis (Indian flat bread)...all washed down with a not-to-sweet lassi (a drink for the gods - divine, frothy, yougurty goodness)...

Conveniently, Noy's Fruit Heaven was located right beside my hotel. The choices for fruity shakes are endless. Noy definitely deserves a place in heaven.

The Shade Restaurant along Fa Ngum Road filled my need for some good Middle Eastern food. The baba ghanoush was wonderfully spiced with ground sumac and a smattering of freshly chopped cilantro...all washed down with a refreshing lime shake.

The French influence is quite evident in Laos - and very noticeably in the cuisine. I just had to indulge in a mille feuille. It was one of the best I've ever had. If only I could remember which cafe I purchased it at...

It must seem weird that I've not talked about local Lao food. Well, the body wants what the body wants. And to keep this one ticking, I need at least one dose of Indian food per week. However, after I'd filled up on good Indian eats, I did have a great Laotian meal at Lao Kitchen on Hengboun Road.

I tried the laab. Laab means 'good fortune' and it's pretty much a required dish for celebrations and important events. I think every time I eat it's an important event so it seemed fitting.

I had the vegetarian version made with tofu, soy sauce, lime, red onion, chilli, roasted onion, mint and basil. It was served alongside some long beans (my fave), sliced cucumber and a basket of sticky rice. It was awesome and I highly recommend it!

I will leave Laos with a full belly and happy memories.

Video: Vientiane, Laos

2011-05-02T08:43:00.000-07:00

Wowed in Lao

2011-05-02T07:07:00.000-07:00

I’m in love with Laos. I was worried that I’d romanticized my memories of Laos and I’d be disappointed. I’m going to date myself, but I was here back in 1998 on an overland trip from Singapore-Malaysia-Thailand-Cambodia-Laos. I can’t believe the trip was completely unplanned and by way of trains, buses and hitchhiking in the back of pickup trucks. Those days are over. I’m much lazier now. This time I paid up for the luxury of flying and pre-booked a hotel. I’m definitely getting old.

It’s a quick 50-minute flight from Hanoi and the easiest visa-on-entry process I’ve ever experienced. Fill in form. Pay $42. Stamp passport. Visa issued. It took less than 5 minutes.

I’m surprised at how little has changed here. Vientiane still feels like a town and to think of it as a capital city is a stretch of the imagination. The streets are quite, the people gentle, and the pace is relaxed – all the opposite of Hanoi. It’s nice to have a break from the ceaseless honking. It’s nice to cross the street and not feel like it’s a major endeavor. It’s nice to be able to hear yourself think. It’s nice to have the concept of vegetarianism understood. Don't get me wrong - I like Vietnam, but I the last two weeks have been at a frantic pace in hectic cities.

Last night, I watched a beautiful, black, stormy sky roll into Vientiane. I wandered around the quiet streets thinking about how romantic it is here in Laos. Even strolling around the streets alone you can’t help but feel the romance. There was a lovely cool rain and I was in bliss.

So, as I sit here in a café, gazing at the Mekong river and sipping a sublime lime shake, I’ll share some highlights of my brief long-weekend here in Laos…

Monks on the streets…there’s something deeply comforting about seeing monks in their saffron robes…

The beautiful Buddhist temples and stuppas scattered throughout the city…

Seeing almost as many bicycles as scooters…

Having an excellent massage to finally work out that kink in my shoulder from 2 weeks ago. I went to a place that employs the visually-impaired. My masseur, Khamlai, was amazing!

Seeing the variety of goods in the backs of trucks…

Services that give pause for thought…(I have to admit, I did consider the #12 and for 25,000 kip it seemed like a steal...)

And life all around...

Cute girl...

Flowers for temple offering...

Rice vendor at market...

Roadside fruit vendor...

Broom vendor...

Wow...

Laundry drying in front of house...

Sidewalk shoe-smith...

At the food market...something with fur still on it...it scared me...

Rice-container vendor...

I will definitely be back to revisit more of beautiful Laos.

Horrors of War

2011-04-28T20:22:00.000-07:00

Obliteration. Genocide. Devastation. Annihilation.

These are the words that float through my mind as I walk through the Aggression War Crimes gallery at the War Remnants Museum in Hanoi. The feelings that course through my heart are equally strong.

Horror. Shock. Anger. Rage. Hopelessness. Sadness. Numbness.

Visiting this museum has been the single most powerful experience thus far in my trip to Vietnam. I was accompanied by Nam, a young student from Tra Vinh province who volunteered to guide Karl and me through the museum so we could learn more about the American War. As we walked through the Agent Orange Aftermath gallery, Nam kept his eyes fixated on me, watching my reactions.

I won’t describe the photos I saw and the text I read because I don’t know where to begin.

I can share with you how I felt – desperate to make sense of the images I was faced with, searching to understand how such events could take place and be tolerated, and trying, trying, trying to understand the horrors the Vietnamese people like Nam’s parents and grandparents witnessed and lived through.

I don’t know what else to say.

Please don't throw rocks at me. Thanks.

2011-04-28T02:06:00.000-07:00

Thunk! Right on the back of my head. And then surprisingly, another whack in the middle of my back before I even have time to turn around. The chanting of “Germany bad!” and “Fu*k you!” instantly stops when I spin around. The 8-year-old boy quickly hides the rock he's holding behind his back and his eyes widen with anticipation. What will I do? What will I say?

I'm a polite Canadian and I idiotically say "Please don't throw rocks at me. I'm not German. Thanks."

He tilts his head with confusion, but at least the mean glint in his eyes is gone.

The day started off on a much more positive note. Along with my counter-part, Van Anh, I headed to explore the small town of Mui Ne just outside of Phan Thiet. We hit the sand dunes first. The Mui Ne area has a unique micro-climate and it was bizarre to see palm trees quickly give way to cacti and sand dunes. Unfortunately, the sand dunes were over-run with tourists, but they were still neat to see.

A vendor on the sand dunes.

Children try to sell "sleds" to tourists to go sledding down the dunes.

We then made a spontaneous stop and took a quick peek at some pungent vats of fermenting fish sauce behind someone's house. You could definitely smell them before you saw them.

Our next stop was the 'Fairy Stream' in Mui Ne. I'd read and heard wonderful things about this spot.

You take off your shoes and walk for a few kilometres in a stream surrounded by a beautiful and strange landscape.

It started off well and the scenery is really gorgeous.

However, things quickly changed when I came across a young German woman. She was clearly upset and on the verge of tears. She explained that a group of children had followed her along the walk and when she reached the end, they claimed that they had been her 'tour guides' and demanded money from her. She said that they had just trailed behind her uninvited and that she felt she didn't owe them anything. They then started to call her names and now wouldn't leave her alone.

I volunteered to walk her back to the beginning of the trail and we headed back. The kids followed along behind us, yelling obscenities. And then things got even uglier. The yelling of “Germany bad!” and “Fu*k you!” got louder and more passionate. They became more aggressive and started throwing rocks at us. I was totally caught off guard. I was surprised suddenly at how unsafe I felt and how threatening this little 'gang' of children looked! Some of them looked to be around 14 or 15 years of age, and there was certainly a menacing look in their eyes. Both the German woman and I were happy when we safely approached the trail-head.

I later learned that these kids are not used to hearing 'no'. Apparently, most of the visitors to the Fairy Stream are Russian tourists who are quick to dole out money to the children, creating dependency relationship. It's a case of tourism gone wrong.

Is it lunchtime yet?

2011-04-28T01:48:00.000-07:00

There are many great things about my job - the people I work with, the office environment, the casual atmosphere, the flexibility - but one of the most unexpected and wonderful surprises has been lunchtime! I'd like to introduce Huong...

She cooks lunch for the office staff every day and she charges us each 30,000 VND ($1.50 Canadian). Around 11:30 am, the smells of highly-anticipated Vietnamese dishes start to waft through the office. At noon, we all eagerly head for the lunch room/kitchen where she cooks and serves up a fresh, hot meal. It's the best Vietnamese food I've had so far! This was today's lunchtime feast...

This is the sweet and sour soup...

My new favourite dish - a beautiful salad with crunchy green papaya, shredded carrots and loads of fresh basil and mint.

And another favourite of mine - freshly fried peanuts with coarse salt.

I love the fact that Huong sits with us and shares the meal. I hope to get to know her better in the coming months...who knows, maybe she'll share some of her cooking secrets with me and I can become half the cook she is?

Video: Phan Thiet

2011-04-21T03:11:00.000-07:00

My video of the sights around Phan Thiet...

Phan Theit

2011-04-20T21:30:00.000-07:00

Phan Thiet: famous for fish sauce. Other than that, this costal town in the province of Binh Thuan is not known for much else. It produces around 20 million litres of fish sauce per year. Before arriving, I was told that the town had a distinctive and overpoweringly fishy smell. I explored the town today and happily found that is not the case.

I'm waiting for my Vietnamese partner, Van Ahn, to arrive tomorrow and I tried to take advantage of the time on my own to check out some sites that may be of interest to the Canadian students. My expedition lasted only about two hours because I quickly succumbed to the draining heat. The temperature in Saigon has been as high as 47 C with humidity these past few days, and it feels similar here. Walking about is a bit of a slog.

Here are some photos from my walk around Phan Thiet...

In Binh Thuan province, acres and acres of fruit plantations...I love tropical fruit and was happy to finally discover what the plants...

...for dragon fruit look like. Here's an unripe fruit...

...and some riper ones.

Along the river, there was lots of action amongst the colourful boats...

The market in town proved to be equally entertaining.

Sunrise at Phan Thiet.

Jackfruit trees.

Duc Thanh School, a cultural and historic site. Around 1910, Ho Chi Minh stayed and taught at the school.

Bao Tang Ho Chi Minh Museum in Phan Thiet.

I hope to explore more of the town on my next visit which will be next month. Here are a few more photos from around Phan Thiet...

Video: Hanoi

2011-04-20T06:57:00.001-07:00

Here's a short video-clip I filmed in Hanoi...enjoy!

Around Saigon

2011-04-19T16:32:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a busy but rewarding day. I spent it with Karl (the other Canadian coordinator) and Linh (one of the two Vietnamese coordinators working on the project). We spent the morning investigating venues for the seminar and then visited a couple of sites in Saigon. Karl and Linh left south for their field site in Tra Vinh in the early afternoon. It was wonderful to discuss the details of the seminar with them as it seems that we have quite a lot of freedom in shaping what it will look like. I'm excited about all the possibilities!

We visited Ben Thahn Market. Everything that is commonly worn, eaten or used by the Saigonese is available here. The building was built in 1914.

The market provided me with my first authentic Vietnamese meal as it has a fabulous vegetarian food stall.

It was a delicious as it looks.

And perfectly complimented by this drinkable dessert that Linh ordered from me.

After Linh and Karl left, I visited the Saigon Central Mosque, built by South Indian Muslims in 1935. It's beautiful. Only half a dozen Indian Muslims remain in Saigon as most of the community fled in 1975.

(Unfortunately) The courtyard is used as motorcycle parking (as are almost all sidewalks in the city).

A cyclo driver tending to his mode of living. Karl remarked that if we had come here fifteen years ago, we would have seen city streets filled with cyclos and bicycles instead of scooters and cars.

Elderly vendor selling drinks on Saigon street.

Built between 1886 and 1881, the largest post office in Vietnam. It has gorgeous architecture both outside...

...and inside.

Phone booths inside the post office.

Statue outside of the post office.

Notre Dame Cathedral, in the centre of Saigon's government quarter. It was built 1877-1883 in the neo-Romanesque style.

I'm off to Binh Thuan province this morning to visit my field site for the first time. It's a 4.5 hour drive and I'm excited to see the rural landscape! More to come...

Vietnam: First Few Days

2011-04-18T18:35:00.000-07:00

Ah, the olden days of Hanoi. This is what things used to look like...charming isn't it?

But not anymore. With a real GDP growth rate of almost 7%, it's all hustle and bustle.

Now it's frantic chaos with endless streams of motorcycles and bicycles - people seem to be constantly on the move.

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh city) seems to have a different vibe but run at an equally frantic pace. Below is a photo of Hotel de Ville (People's Committee Building). It was built between 1901 and 1908 but unfortunately, is not open to the public.

The gardens in front of the building are lovely though...

...with a nice statute of Ho Chi Minh himself.

The detail on the building is amazingly ornate. Apparently, at night, the exterior is covered in thousands of geckos feasting on insects.

I love this. A couple playing badminton in the middle of a major road (Dong Khoi area, Saigon).

I feel a bit overwhelmed with my first two days here. There's a lot to take in. Landing in Hanoi, flying to Saigon the following day, and planning for a the first field visit to Binh Thuan tomorrow has left me a bit disoriented. More to come, so please check back...

Just the factoids, please.

2011-04-06T08:01:00.000-07:00

I've been thinking a lot about facts and factoids recently. I like the word "factoid." It sounds neat. What does it mean and how is it different than a "fact"?

Well, we can verify or prove facts. A factoid is "an item of unreliable information that is repeated so often that it becomes accepted as fact." Norman Mailer is credited with coining the term and the Washington Times referred to his term as "something that looks like a fact, could be a fact, but in fact is not a fact."

Over the past few months, I've been reading about Vietnam and sifting through content trying to discern what is fact and what is factoid. I've been reading about Vietnam's history, people, culture - and at the same time, trying to peel back layers of bias, unravel half-truths, and figure out what really happened in this country?

Here are some of things I've come across during my reading...fact or factoid?

* The Hanoi Hilton (the Hoa Lo Prison) served each new 'guest' a rice cake, tea and a kick in the groin upon their arrival.

* There are more waterbuffalo per capita in Vietnam than in any other nation.

* Agent Orange defoliated 100% of over 1.6 million acres of forest.

* 4.8 million Vietnamese people were exposed to Agent Orange, resulting in 400,000 people being killed or maimed, and 500,000 children born with birth defects.

These are just a few examples...it will be interesting to see how much truth there is to what I've read, how many misconceptions I unwittingly hold, and how little I know about a fascinating country: Vietnam.

For the Love of Jam

2011-04-04T13:36:00.000-07:00

There's one thing I always seem to really miss when I travel. Jam. There's something utterly delicious and homey about that good old-fashioned jam that you can pick up at almost any Canadian farmer's market. For me, it's a comfort food that I crave every time I go overseas.

If Bobbles and Uncle Gary ever joined the dark side, I think they'd be jam bandits.

I few days ago, I was ravenous and the only thing that could seem to satisfy me was thick cuts of a fresh baguette heaped with spoonfuls of sticky jam. Unfortunately, I had to settle for store-bought jam instead of some lovely home-made concoction, but still it was so jammy and good...and so simple and so divine.

I know I can find good baguettes in Vietnam, but I wonder if I can find good jam there. I hope so.

A Source of Inspiration

2011-03-31T09:19:00.000-07:00

I met up with a friend a couple of nights ago. He's a brilliant chemistry professor and wonderful conversationalist.

He's not brilliant just because he has a PhD, is a leading-edge chemist, and knows what the phrase "liquid chromatography-based bioanalytical techniques to probe bioinorganic chemistry-related mechanisms that take place in the mammalian bloodstream" actually means - but also because he's extremely inquisitive and curious about life. Every single time I sit down and talk with him, I leave the conversation with a freshly-shaken view of the world around me. I love that.

Our last conversation covered many topics - from recent budgetary decisions made by the federal government and their devastating effects on research at Canadian universities, to the fabulous cheeses of Spain, to a 25-year-old rock lobster in a basement laboratory in Australia, to the near-absence of inspiration in education. We spent some time discussing the importance and absence of inspiration in academia, education, teaching and learning. This lead to a discussion of inspirational quotes.

Over the years, I've found several quotes to be a great source of inspiration. One of my favourites, I have framed at the entrance of my home:

"Freedom is what you do with what's been done to you." - Sartre

Yes, it's a bit dark, but it reminds me of where I've come from and where I strive to be.

At one point in my life, when I was struggling with forgiveness (both extending it and graciously accepting it), I'd look daily at this quote:

"Forgiveness is the scent that the violet sheds on the heel that has crushed it." - Mark Twain

So, over coffee the other night, my friend spoke of his admiration for Santiago Ramón y Cajal. Don't be embarrassed if you don't know who he is - I admit, I didn't either. Cajal is someone we should all know. He was the father of modern neuroscience, a Nobel laureate and a man ahead of the times.

My friend shared a quote he recently came upon when reading Cajal's biography. It's become my new favourite quote:

"It is strange to see how the populace...disdains the world around it as
commonplace, monotonous and prosaic, without suspecting that at bottom it
is all secret, mystery, and marvel."

Now doesn't that give you a lot to think about? I'm going to carry this quote with me in Vietnam and use it to reflect upon the secret, mystery and marvel that I am sure will surround me.

What's your favourite quote? Please share with me in the Comments section below...I would love to hear from you.

The Seychelles

2011-03-20T10:35:00.001-07:00

Picture-perfect. Those are the two words I would use to describe the Seychelles. Like the Maldives, every photo I look at from the Seychelles looks suspiciously like a postcard. To think that I was actually standing in the exact spot the photo was taken feels surreal. For example:

Isn't that stunning?

The Seychelles are made up of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean and the nearest neighbours are Madagascar and the great continent of Africa. Only 30 of the islands are inhabited.

I had the privilege of visiting four islands:

Mahé: the largest granitic island (152 sq km) and home to 90% of the population.

Praslin: the second largest island with soft, white, sandy beaches and palm forests.

La Digue: a small island (10 sq km) with secluded beaches and boulders that look sculpted.

Ile Cocos: closed to the public for 10 years, this tiny island is now open and an excellent spot for snorkelling.

Trip highlights include:

Seeing old friends and meeting new ones. What a treat it was to meet up with our friends Jolyn and Melvin, and to meet their colleagues who quickly became our friends as well. Everyone was so warm and welcoming that it felt like we'd know them for ages. The people we met and the conversations and laughs we had were definitely the highlight of our trip.

Seeing the famous Coco de Mer tree -a rare and protected species, endemic to the Seychelles.

Seeing the Aldabra giant tortoise - the only remaining natural population survives at Aldabra Atoll in the Seychelles, a World Heritage Site. There are over 152,000 of them

there, 10 times more than the Galapagos giant tortoise population. The average male weighs around 550 pounds but still manages to float. They are huge, lumbering, and beautiful.

Feasting the eyes and palate on food. I enjoyed each and every bite and sight, from tiny bananas, to

gorgeous Arabian delights (thanks to Chef Hassan!), to sticky coconut cake-like treats, to markets bursting with colourful fruits, vegetables and spices, to the most delicious passion fruit I've ever eaten (thanks to Aileen!), to jalebi bought from a convenience store, to home-cooking (thanks Tomi!). Oh, my awe-struck eyes and my happy, full tummy.

The flora and fauna. The Seychelles are the epitome of a lush, verdant, jungle paradise full of lots of little creatures.

Visiting sites around the islands. Like the tribute to the Coco de Mer on Praslin island.

Relaxing in the lovely Victoria Botanical Gardens.

Exploring the capital city, Victoria (population 25,000).

Visiting the tea plantation near Port Glaud.

Visiting the Capucin Mission Ruins - a reminder of the slave trade.

Hiking near Grande Anse.

Enjoying both simple and extravagant treats, like mangosteens and fancy drinks.

Exploring the under-water world near Ile Cocos and Felicite Island and seeing sharks, turtles and schools of colourful fish.

Visiting L'Union Estate Park and seeing the vanilla plantations.

One of my favourite parts was visiting the La Veuve Reserve, home to the endemic and endangered Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher bird. The staff person in the small office was very helpful and we managed to spot both a male and female Flycatcher.

Exploring the island of La Digue by bicycle was a lot of fun and a reminder of how long it's been since I've ridden a bike. It also helped us avoid the ox-powered taxis.

And of course, the gorgeous, jaw-dropping, eye-popping, take-your-breath-away beaches...like the first beach we visited on Praslin...

The beach we stayed at, Petite Anse, Mahe...

The very quiet beach at Port Launay, Mahe...

The lovely Port Glaud, Mahe...

Beautiful Anse Soleil, Mahe...

The beach near Maria's Rock Cafe, Mahe...

The deserted beach of Anse Corail, Mahe...

Anse Forbans, Mahe...

Grande Anse, Mahe...

Sunsent at La Digue...

Anse Source D'Argent, La Digue...I think this is where the commercial for Bounty chocolate bars was made...

Anse Pierrot, La Digue...

Grande Anse, La Digue...

And most importantly, much gratitude to all those who made this trip possible and allowed me to have such a luxurious holiday - the experience was truly a treat and I am very, very thankful!

Full Circle

2011-02-25T04:17:00.000-08:00

I've now completed the full VSO cycle, from selection to interview to pre-departure training to placement and finally, re-integration. Yes, I've been re-integrated back into Canadian society.

What does that mean?

Well a big part of the 'reintegration process' is the VSO Reintegration Weekend that takes place in Ottawa. It's offered to Returned Volunteers (RVs) within a year of returning to Canada. I just attended the 3-day event this past weekend in Ottawa and it was great!

The weekend:
- provided RVs an opportunity to share experiences with other RVs
- helped RVs with reverse culture shock and managing the impact of re-entry
- helped RVs to think about next steps in their personal and professional life
- enabled RVs to explore ways of staying involved with international development and VSO
- allowed VSO to gather feedback that will help VSO improve their work

When I first received the invitation to attend the Reintegration Weekend I was quite surprised. I thought that since I had returned early from Malawi, I wouldn't be asked to take part. I spoke to staff at the VSO office and expressed my interest in the event - and also my over-riding sense of guilt! Did someone like me deserve to attend? Was it a good use of VSO's resources to fly me across the county and then put me up in a hotel? They assured me that my attendance was important - not only for me to process my experience, but also for them to receive my feedback and learn more about why I had returned early as this could help them in the future with their processes and systems. Well, that sounded reasonable to me.

So, how was it?

It was an amazing weekend of discussion, debate, learning, sharing, and laughter. The other RVs were wonderfully honest in sharing their stories and open to hearing mine. We were all amazed at how much we had in common in terms of our placement experience and often found ourselves nodding and saying, "Me too!" It was also wonderful to hear the differences - as this gives me insight into the possibilities that my next placement may hold. The weekend helped me to re-frame my experience and go deeper into what I've learned. It also gave me the opportunity to connect with some truly inspiring individuals. And, it's made me even more excited about my next placement with CUSO-VSO!

Be Mine?

2011-02-14T08:59:00.000-08:00

Today is Valentine's Day - a tired, cheesy, commercial, over-blown 'celebration' of love...BUT... I'm thinking of all my friends around the world...especially those who are volunteering far from home and loved ones. I hope today, like all your days, is filled with all kinds of love.

"Love recognizes no barriers.
It jumps hurdles,
leaps fences,

penetrates walls
to arrive at its destination
full of hope."
- Maya Angelou

Destination: Vietnam!

2011-02-13T16:51:00.000-08:00

I have a new placement! The joy! The anticipation! The anxiety!

I will be going to Vietnam for a 6-month volunteer placement with Uniterra. I will be working as an Internship Coordinator for the International Seminar, which has a long and well-established history dating back to 1948. The seminar takes 20 university students from across Canada and joins them with 20 students from the global South for a six-week educational experience. The seminar uses a grassroots approach to learning and offers students real-world understanding of development issues, the chance to work in a cross-cultural context in a developing country, and the opportunity to collaborate in a group project that supports a local development organization.

In my role, I will be working alongside another Canadian volunteer, as well as two Vietnamese coordinators. Together, we will coordinate and support all aspects of student fieldwork, guide the students, and facilitate the learning process and group dynamics. This year, the seminar will focus on the theme ‘Youth in the Workforce and the Socioeconomic Development of Vietnam.’ The field project is a collaborative venture with Uniterra’s partners in Vietnam and local stakeholders. All of the topics, methodology, and approaches are determined collaboratively in order to support the work and develop practical and useful materials and information for the partner organizations. Seminar participants will share their learning and experiences when they return to campus, as well as in their communities through public engagement activities.

Here is a look at the focus countries for the International Seminar over the years:

1948 - Germany
1949 - Holland
1950 - France
1951 - Canada
1952 - Europe
1953 - India
1954 - Europe and West Africa
1955 - Japan
1956 - Germany
1957 - Ghana
1958 - Yugoslavia
1959 - West Indies
1960 - Israel
1961 - Sweden
1962 - Poland
1963 - Pakistan
1964 - Algeria
1965 - Chile
1966 - Turkey
1967 - Canada
1968 - West Africa
1969 - Canada
1970 - Mexico
1971 - Colombia
1972 - Peru
1973 - India
1974 - Caribbean and Central America
1975 - Egypt
1976 - Guyana
1977 - China and Acadie
1978 - Senegal and Western Canada
1979 - Sri Lanka and Ontario

1980 - Tunisia
1981 - Ecuador
1982 - Costa Rica
1983 - Egypt
1984 - Haiti
1985 - Thailand
1986 - Mauritius
1987 - Zimbabwe
1988 - Mali
1989 - Leeward and Windward Island
1990 - Morocco
1991 - Botswana
1992 - Brazil
1993 - Indonesia
1994 - Benin
1995 - Vietnam
1996 - Peru
1997 - Peru
1998 - Vietnam and Botswana
1999 - Benin and Zimbabwe
2000 - Benin and Malawi
2001 - Vietnam
2002 - Vietnam
2003 - Benin
2004 - Malawi
2005 - Burkina Faso
2006 - Botswana
2007 - Ghana and Burkina Faso
2008 - Ghana
2009 - Peru
2010 - Nepal

Parting Shots

2010-12-13T18:16:00.000-08:00

Well, I'm sad to report that my placement came to an unexpected and early end. After learning that the work I had come to do in Malawi had already been completed (the books are published!), staff at both MIE and VSO Malawi worked hard to find an alternative, but an appropriate role for me couldn't be identified. So back to the drawing board. I'm hoping that VSO Canada will be able to find a new placement for me soon.

I'm thankful for the experiences I've had in Malawi and am grateful for having met so many wonderful volunteers who are committed to contributing their skills and knowledge in the hopes that this country will prosper.

For those friends who donated to VSO on my behalf, I want you to rest assured that your donations have been put to good use! You donations will continue to support the amazing work of many VSO volunteers -

like my friend R osy, whose work at Kamuzu Central Hospital fills me with awe and respect;

Dha rini who has braved a rabies scare and is volunteering in the remote, far north of Malawi with the Chitipa District AIDS Coordinating Committee; Ling, a wonderful doctor at Rumphi District Hospital; Hanna, an amazing German midwife, who is volunteering in Blantyre; my Scottish pal, Anna, who is volunteering with Zomba Mental Hospital; and Chris and Jennifer Edwards, both doctors from the UK, who are stationed in the 'armpit' of Malawi at Trinity Hospital in Nsanje...and other friends like Rod and Carol who are volunteering to improve school life and access to education in northern Uganda; Jessica in beautiful, northern Thailand; China and Ale, two talented industrial designers helping disabled furniture makers in Kenya....and hundreds of other VSO volunteers around the globe! (click on the volunteer names I've listed above if you'd like to visit their blogs and read about their inspiring work!)

I sincerely want to thank everyone that has been part of this volunteer journey - those of you who financially contributed, friends and family at home and abroad that sent me encouraging messages to keep the homesickness at bay (especially you, Kristin & Tamara!), local volunteers that shared their tips and tricks to help ease the transition into a new country and new culture, the volunteers in my intake group that were able to commiserate and laugh through it all (especially you, Anna!), and VSO Malawi staff for their support. There are so many things that I am grateful to have experienced and so many things that I miss about Malawi such as...

the kindness, patience and humour of my colleagues at the Malawi Institute of Education....

the quirky signs of businesses dotting the landscape that always made me smile no matter how rough my day was...(my favourite was the 'God Willing Beauty Salon')...

the beauty of the landscape around my home...

the smiling faces of the children I'd see each day on campus and how this would put everything into perspective...

the amazing wildlife that left me with wide eyes and open mouth...

the human strength and perseverance I witnessed that humbled me...

the innocence, imagination and innovation of children...

the excitement of exploring new places with new friends...

getting filthy and being okay with it...

and especially the wonderful friends I made...like Caleb, a VSO volunteer from Kenya, who worked with me and helped me in countless ways every day...

Issa, my neighbour, who helped me settle into the community and fed me local Malawian food like nsima...

Grace, who would visit me at my home just to chat...she has three siblings named Ephless, Promise and Bright...she aspires to be a journalist one day...

Vella, a strong and soft-spoken young woman who comes from a family of nine...she volunteers with the Domasi Youth Alive group...

Chimwemwe, a beautiful, painfully shy girl who would visit me and bring mangoes from her family's farm...

and Malawi itself.

All Other Places Are Tame

2010-11-18T20:33:00.000-08:00

Africa

The fascination Africa has always held for those who have visited her shores has hitherto been the fascination of Mistress, never of the wife.

She held out no lure, for she was no courtesan. A man came to her in his eager youth, asking, praying that she would give him that which should make life good, and she trusted and opened her arms.

What she had to give she gave freely, generously, and there was no stint, no lack. And he took. Her charm he counted on as a matter of course, her tenderness was hid due, her passion his pleasure, but the fascination he barely admitted could not keep him.

Though she had given all, she had no rights and, when other desires called he left her, left her with words of pity that were an injury, of regret that were an insult.

But all this is changing.

Africa holds. The man who has known Africa longs for her.

In the sordid city street she remembers the might and loneliness of her forests, by the rippling brook he remembers the wide rivers rushing tumultuous from the lakes, in the night when on the roof the rain's splashing drearily he remembers the mellow tropical nights, the sky of velvet far away, the stars like points of gold, the warm moonlight that with its deeper shadows made a fairer world.

Even the languor and the heat he longs for, the white surf on yellow sand of the beaches, the thick jungle growth gently matted, rankly luxuriant, pulsating with the irrepressible life of the tropics.

All other places.... are tame.

- Mary Gaunt 1910

The joy of books!

2010-11-10T23:57:00.000-08:00

Well, I’m sure many of you are wondering if I’ve actually done any work while I’ve been here in Malawi. To be honest, other than editing a few documents and a research report, things have been off to a very slow start. This is largely due to the fact that my placement seems to have created a great deal of confusion at MIE, my place of employment – and I think I’m the most confused of all! I’m trying to remain hopeful and waiting patiently for it to get sorted out…but in the meantime, here is some information about the project I came to work on…

The Read Malawi project was created in response to a need in Malawi. The need is for quality learning materials for primary school students. Read Malawi is based on the belief that if learners are to become literate readers and writers, they must have:
- quality materials to read
- an adequate quantity of materials that ensure frequent opportunities for individual and group engagement
- guidance and support in how to become successful in reading
- opportunities to make connection to literacy in their communities
- the chance to envision themselves becoming the authors of future books and texts.

Some quick info about Read Malawi:
- a unique book development program
- USAID sponsored
- Partnerships include Ministry Of Education Science and Technology, Malawi Institute of Education, University of Texas San Antonio, University of Texas, IED, Intel, RealeStudios, and UCB
- distribution of a minimum of 2,500,000 books

The phases of project implementation and roll out include:
- pilot study in Zomba schools (base line data collection)
- workshop for teachers, head teachers and primary education advisors (PEA’s) on Read Aloud
- practice of Read Aloud in schools
- follow up support visits from head teachers, PEA’s and MIE
- full teacher training in the Read Malawi model
- follow up support visits from head teachers, PEA’s and MIE
- full implementation of the model
- more follow up support visits from head teachers, PEA’s and MIE
- pilot study in Zomba school (post data collection)
- revision of model based on feedback
- national role out of program in over 1000 schools
- evaluation study

(I took all of these photos at the primary school on campus for the children of MIE staff.)

Snaps - Senga Bay & Kande

2010-11-09T09:30:00.000-08:00

This past week I attended two conferences - first, the VSO Peer Conference at Senga Bay, Lake Malawi. This conference was aimed at bringing volunteers working in the education programme area together to share learnings, challenges and successes. The second conference, the VSO National Conference, was held at Kande Beach, Lake Malawi and was for volunteers in all of the 4 programme areas - education, HIV/AIDS, health, and secure livelihoods. Some photos from the week of conferencing...

Birds at Murande Cottages, venue of the VSO Peer Support Conference. Love the one on the right. Crazy bird.

I love these massive, colourful trees. Not sure what they're called, but the burst of bright orange always takes my breath away. This one is near the bus station in Balaka.

The blooms up close.

Senga Bay fishing boats, early morning.

Sunrise at Senga Bay. It was well worth getting up at 5 am to see this.

Calm waters at Senga Bay.

Bobbles takes in gorgeous sunrise at Senga Bay.

Kande Beach, VSO National Conference. This is the dorm room building.

Inside the dorm room- can you sense the excitement?

Somewhere along the way.

Fishermen setting out for the day, Senga Bay.

Some shops along the way.

The bar at Kande Beach, a good venue for learning. We all got a good laugh when the dog joined us, front and centre.

Fish anyone? At a stop, men try to sell us very fresh fish through the car window.

Bigger Is Not Better

2010-11-09T08:12:00.000-08:00

They say everything is bigger in Texas. Well, whoever said that has obviously never been to Malawi. At least when it comes to bugs.

Even though I grew up on a farm and am used to spiders, ants, weevils, and other creepy-crawlies, the bugs of Malawi have united and instilled a fear of epic proportions in me. I’m afraid. Very, very afraid.

It all culminated with The Great Flying Ant Infestation of 2010. Participation (of ants) was high, and the frenzy (of ants and myself) was tangible. This past weekend, I returned from a week away, having attended the VSO Peer Support Conference and the VSO National Conference. After a great week of learning and sharing at Lake Malawi, I was welcomed home by about a million (no exaggeration) massive flying ants that seemed to have had their own conference in my bathroom. A lovely carpet of dead (sleeping? hibernating?) ants covered the entire floor of the bathroom. But not all of them were dead. Some where in mid-flight when I opened the door, and others, sensing an intruder, seemed to immediately take flight and aim directly for me. This infestation was like a plague of biblical proportions. I fled the scene.

After regaining my composure (which I lost during my yelping, flailing retreat) and mustering up some confidence, I returned armed with a can of DOOM. Ah, DOOM insect spray – the savior and trusty companion of many a volunteer. The name says it all. I trusted what I read on the can – “Deadly Killing Action” – and sprayed practically the entire contents of this lethal stuff into my bathroom. It seems that DOOM is highly toxic and somewhat effective. The next morning, when I dared to peek into ant central, I discovered mostly dead ants (a few seemed just disoriented), a dead baby gecko who was an unfortunate casualty, a smattering of some dead bugs that looked like wasps, and some twitching Mother-of-All-Ants. These ones were HUGE. Black, shiny, invincible, and five times the size of the others. They gave DOOM a good run for its money.

James (the housekeeper) arrived soon after and swept up the ant carcasses. Thank god for James. The poor man not only has to come and clean up heaps of dead insects every day, but he also has to contend with me, cowering behind his back, whimpering and pointing to my newest insect discovery.

So, all this makes me wonder – will I eventually overcome my fear after repeated and continuous exposure to insects? Normally, I wouldn’t be so scared – but it’s the sheer size of the bugs that is most unsettling. They all seem monstrous here. I’ve seen spiders that are the size of my hand and look like they’re wearing fur coats. I found a grass-hoppery-thing on my laundry yesterday and I swear it was the length of my hand and looked like it was made of plastic.

Speaking of laundry – that’s the source of another fear. I’ve been ironing all of my laundry. Every article of clothing, every bed sheet, every towel. Yes, I iron my towels. Trust me, when the temperature is a sweltering 36C, ironing is the last thing you want to be doing. But my ironing is a carefully planned pre-emptive attack on the tumbu fly. I fear the little tumbu fly. I hope we never meet, and just to be cautious, I’ve gone on the defensive. The tumbu fly is also called “putsi” and it happily lays its eggs on laundry drying on a line outside or on soil. When the eggs come into contact with human flesh (when you put our clothes on or you lie on your bed sheets), they hatch and the larvae bury themselves under your skin. But wait, it gets better. The larvae under your skin form a crop of ‘boils’ with live maggots inside. So, you have live maggots living in boils in your skin. That’s all. No biggie. Given the alternative, ironing doesn’t seem so bad after all. So, those are my sources of comfort these days – a can of DOOM and an iron.

Thoughts? Questions? Concerns? Please leave a comment below! I love comments.

Weekend Getaway

2010-10-27T19:28:00.000-07:00

I had an interesting weekend, with a visit to both Zomba and Liwonde National Park.

I thought it was time to try a solo trip into Zomba using the public transportation system. I made plans with Anna to meet in Zomba Town for lunch on Saturday. From my home on the MIE campus, it’s a 30-minute walk to the main road, where public transport runs. I left home later than expected, so by the time I reached the main road, the sun was already high overhead, and I was covered in a film of sweat and a layer of dust. A minibus (a minivan) quickly pulled up to the side of the road and I yelled out “Zomba?” to the driver’s assistant (the guy who scuttles people into the van and collects their money), to which his reply was an enthusiastic “Yes!”

I climbed on board. A word about these minibuses – they are in a state of utter disrepair to say the least. Usually basic things like seatbelts, windows, instrument panel, fuel gage, etc. do not work. Often, widows are missing, and assortments of seats taken from other vehicles are installed. There’s usually 1.5-2 bodies squeezed onto a seat meant for one person, so in the end, roughly 15-20 people are packed in very snuggly. Add in the sacks of flour, suitcases, baskets of vegetables and cages of chickens and you have an authentic Malawian experience.

The 15 km journey on the main road took 30 minutes when I was travelling to Zomba, and more than an hour when I came back home. Why? Well, there’s a fuel crisis in Malawi, so there never seems to be enough fuel in any vehicle. At one point, we ran out of gas, so the driver grabbed what looked to be a one-liter bottle from under his seat and added it to the vehicle. The vehicle then refused to start, so a few of the passengers got out to do a push-start. We were back on the road, but only briefly. We then stopped at a gas station to get more fuel, but they didn’t have any fuel at all, so had to go to a second gas station. And then the driver decided to have one of the tires changed. On the way back home, it was an equally slow trip – with many stops along the way to wait for more passengers to fill up seats. I was shuffled from one vehicle to another twice during the trip, so that vehicles were at full capacity. With the stifling heat, pressing bodies and constant delays, it was a tiring 15 km drive. When I got dropped off in Domasi, it was another 30 minute walk along dusty paths back to the house, and this left me questioning how often I really want to travel into Zomba – though it was lovely to see Anna and I really enjoyed hearing about how she is settling into her placement at Zomba Mental Hospital. She reported that for over 350 patients, there are 2 night nurses and for the 97 patients in the acute ward, there is only one nurse! The understaffing and lack of resources is astounding. I’m very curious to see how her (and Nick’s) work will unfold in the coming months.

I was planning to stay home, relax and read on Sunday, but was unexpectedly invited by the American Read Malawi staff to join them on an excursion to Liwonde National Park. I’ve been very eager to visit one of Malawi’s national parks or wildlife reserves, so I jumped at the opportunity!

Some quick info about Liwonde National Park:
- it’s 548 sq kilometers
- the park has python vines, mopane trees, countless baobab trees, reeds swamp, floodplain grasslands, tall grass savanna and wild flowers, including lilies and orchids
- the most prominent large mammals in the park are elephant (more than 900) and hippo (2000)
- the 2000 hippos live along 40km of the Shire River that cuts through the park and this is one of the densest hippo populations on the African continent
- crocodiles, impala, waterbuck, bushbuck, warthog, vervet monkeys and yellow baboons are very common
- there are some hyenas, leopards, and jackals
- African wild dog and lions have been hunted out but some from Mozambique do pass through the park
- there are 11 black rhinos in a guarded and fenced sanctuary in the park
- there are more than 400 bird species! It’s a birding paradise!

I have a feeling that the visit to this park will be one of the highlights of my time here in Malawi. It was an incredible experience, to see these animals in the wild –and so many of them as well!

The setting is absolutely spectacular – the massive, strangely-shaped baobas, the scorched earth with vein-like cracks, the cartoonish warthogs scurrying around with their tails in the air like antennas, the hippos peeking out of the water, the awe-inspiring stately elephants, the graceful impala bounding through the tall grass, the shockingly bright green, orange and blue birds flitting between leafless trees, the fish eagle diving into the water, and the 10-feet-high termite hills. It was amazing to be surrounded by so much life.

Some photos from Liwonde National Park…

Sign at entrance to Liwonde National Park, Malawi.

Warthog mother with her babies.

From a distance, animals along the bank of the Shire River.

A female impala.

A male sable antelope.

A herd of impala.

Not sure what this is - maybe a waterbuck or kudu?

These photos were taken with a zoom lens, so we were not as close to the elephants as it appears.

Elephant.

African openbill.

A terrapin.

Malawi has somewhere between 650 to 750 species of birds. I'm not sure what these ones are!

African fish eagle.

A male greater kudu.

Impala grazing along the river.

Peeking hippos.

Hippos with giant termite hill in the background.

Arithmetic, Punishment and Salad.

2010-10-23T10:54:00.000-07:00

Here’s a bit of a random posting…

Things I like about Malawi...names. I love the names Malawian people use. One of the other volunteers, Mark (from Australia) and I were talking about names recently. He said that while he was in Zimbabwe, he met local children named Arithmetic, Punishment and Salad. He said that the parents were very poor and illiterate and used the only English word they knew. In Malawi, many of the people have Christian names, like Matthews, Marks, and Samson. There are other, more Malawian names like Mphatso, Rhodia, and Chimwemwe ( I love that one!). And then there are some interesting names such as Loveness, Promise, and Bright. The people I meet are surprised and amused by my name. In Chichewa, the main local language, 'Moni' means 'hi' or 'hello.' I've never seen my name in so much print! Of course, this is amusing to me because I never see it in print other than on personal documents back home. As a child, I remember my friends having stickers, pencils and other trinkets with their names printed on them - 'Colleen' 'Lisa' and 'Sandra' - and I felt slightly envious and a bit embarrassed by my strange name. I think the closest I came was when one Christmas, a friend gave me a key chain with the "ca" blacked out on a keychain that said 'Monica.' Well, I guess Malawi has made up for that!

Another thing I like about Malawi...the people. Everyone I've met has been warm, friendly and kind. And I've met a lot of people, not only at work, but also in my wanderings around Domasi. Each time I venture out, I run into someone who looks at me curiously, breaks into a huge smile, and greets me warmly. This is usually followed by profuse handshaking, how-are-you’s, and a lot of thanking each other. It sure helps to feel welcomed into the community! The children are great too! They start off shy but their curiosity quickly takes over and then they scamper after me, usually trying to talk to me in Chichewa, to which I reply in English after exhausting the few Chichewa words I know. So, we continue on, smiling and giggling at each other. I’ve had a few of the braver ones yell at me as I’m walking away, “Give me my money!” or “Give me my watch!” Clearly, grammar and syntax are very different in Chichewa. It’s all very entertaining.

Work is starting to take off, if somewhat slowly. I’ve been tasked with editing a research study investigating factors that contribute to the low participation of women in leadership positions in education in Malawi, South Africa and Zambia. I’m learning a lot while I work through this document.

I’ve also had my first glimpse of the work Read Malawi is doing. For the past two days, MIE has been hosting a workshop introducing primary teachers, head teachers and primary education advisers to the phases of project implementation and roll out. There are over 100 participants, and the aim is to engage these educators in creating a culture of readers in Malawi. Read Malawi is a book development program sponsored by USAID targeting the development and distribution of a minimum of 2.5 million books.

Currently, the classrooms in Malawi are in an appalling state. Many classrooms have 150 students and only one teacher. Most classrooms are without basic furniture, chalkboards and books. That’s why this project is so important – in order for learners to become literate, they must have quality materials to read and quantities that ensure frequent opportunities for individual and group engagement. The project also aims to provide guidance to teachers so that their students are successful in reading these materials, as well as to set expectations for making connections to literacy in their communities – and hopefully, this will lead them on the path to envisioning themselves as authors of future texts. All of the materials are authored and developed in Malawi for Malawian children! This is an important element in building local capacity. Read Malawi believes in good stories, skilled teachers, enjoying and learning go hand in hand, and promoting literate lives inside and outside of schools.

That’s all for now! More to come soon…

My Cooking Buddy

Bobbles sitting in the front doorway leading into the kitchen.

The local kids at play in Domasi!

Beautiful children in my neighbourhood.

A visit to the village of Malosa, a 15 minute drive north of Domasi. Those are some big trees.

Two Weeks In

2010-10-15T18:35:00.000-07:00

The in-country training for new volunteers is over and I'm in Domasi now. During the last day of training, we were sent out on our own to learn how to use the transport system and fend for ourselves in the market. I think we did fairly well considering all of us made it back to the meeting point without any major mishaps. The market was unlike anything I've seen in the past and definitely different than the markets of South-East Asia. For a capital city, it was surprisingly small, and other than the veggies and limited fruits, the majority of goods were used - everything from soccer balls to transistor radios.

The following morning, my employer (Malawi Institute of Education) sent a vehicle and driver to pick me up and transport me to Domasi. My fellow VSO volunteer and MIE coworker, Caleb, was also in Lilongwe, so he rode back to Domasi with me. Caleb is from Kenya and works in the media section of MIE. He also happens to be my new neighbour. After a week in Lilongwe, it was nice to finally see some of the countryside. The drive from Lilongwe to Domasi is roughly 3.5 hours (depending on road conditions, weather, and the driver). Before leaving Lilongwe, we did a bit of shopping in Lilongwe to buy some food supplies. I was thankful that we found an Indian grocery store! I stocked up on turmeric, cumin seeds, ghee and lentils - and even a thuva! I'm trying to stick to the local Malawian foods, but being vegetarian, it's a bit challenging at times, so my Indian foods and spices will serve as a useful backup.

From Lilongwe, we headed south through Balaka, and then west. It's the hot and dry season right now, so the terrain was brown, dusty, and fairly barren with scrubby brushes. We could see mountains in the distance, often with small villages scattered around them. The farmland was often blackened and sooty, as the last crops have been harvested and the remnants burned in order to prepare the soil for the next seeding. The most striking thing for me is the amount of people that are walking along the roadside. Everywhere you look, no matter how remote or how far between villages, you will see people walking. Everywhere, there are men, women, and children walking. It is rare to see bicycles and even more rare to see motorcycles, but you will see people walking everywhere you go.

We made a pit-stop along the way at a town called Lizulu to buy fresh fruits and vegetables. As soon as our vehicle stopped, we were swarmed with vendors eager to unload their products on us. We stocked up on tomatoes, cabbage, onions, and carrots. The fruits and veggies are very seasonal here, and there are no preservation methods, so you have to eat whatever is available, and eat it quickly! [Mariette - I wish you were here with your newly acquired canning skills!] The drive continued and I had my first glimpse of the great Shire River, which looked wide, flat and calm. I look forward to seeing the changes the wet season brings to the landscape.

We arrived in Domasi at around 5:30 pm, so I had a chance to look at the grounds around my new home before the sun fell. Darkness falls quickly here - there seems to a lovely soft light at sunset and a slight cooling in the air. You barely get to enjoy it when suddenly, you're enveloped in complete darkness. MIE has given me temporary housing (the director's house) until my permanent housing (the guesthouse) is sorted out. Almost all MIE staff live on campus. The director's house that I'm staying in is huge. It's meant for a family but sits vacant as the director has chosen to live in the nearby city of Zomba. I'm so thankful that it has running water (hot and cold!), electricity, and a real stove! The water seems to be consistent (though I'm boiling and then filtering it for drinking), but the electricity is erratic. It seems to vanish each day, sometimes for 30 minutes and sometimes for up to 8 hours. These power-outages have given me the chance to learn to bathe in the dark, prepare meals in the dark, and get ready for bed in the dark. [Mezaun - don't' read the rest of this paragraph, and skip the next one as well, as I fear you will never come and visit me!] Bathing in the dark was a bit traumatic as I've been having visitors in my bathtub. I'm had huge beetles, massive spiders, and each morning, I seem to find something bigger and more legged than the day before. After only a week, I'm not even surprised anymore - I open the bathroom door and say "Good morning. Who are you?" as I peer into the bathtub. Despite their daunting size, all the critters seem to be fairly passive and not that interested in me. And that's a good thing.

Speaking of critters, the grounds around the house, and the campus as a whole, are absolutely lovely! Huge trees that sway and rustle each morning when I wake up, and then become absolutely silent during the heat of mid-day. It's stifling, mind-numbing hot around mid-day and everything comes to a standstill in the 35 C temperature. There are monkeys that come out and climb the trees in the front yard. I've seen the most beautiful birds outside my kitchen window in the early mornings - bright red-headed woodpeckers, tiny weavers that make nests as if they were artists, and numerous others that I can't name. I wish I had a bird-book! Apparently, there are over 700 species of birds in Malawi. Each morning, I'm awakened by the neighbour's chickens who seem to like to hang out beneath my bedroom window at 4 a.m., the scratching of Caleb's turkeys, or a flying insect that seems to pass by my window at 4:30 a.m. I have never seen it, but it sounds like a helicopter. It's that loud. I'm not sure I actually want to see it. There are geckos, lizards, and lots and lots of insects - mostly large ones that look a bit frightening and seem to fly directly towards my head. I'm trying to take it all in stride. I'm trying not to panic. Taking lots of deep, long breaths. I'm convinced that they sense my fear and are just messing with me.

Last Sunday, Gay (Anna's roommate and VSO volunteer from Philippines) invited us for lunch in Zomba. Caleb, Issa (Caleb's guard) and I walked from the campus to the main road, about 20 minutes of walking along dusty, dirt paths that cut through the campus and then the surrounding farmland. We boarded a minibus (a battered minivan that's barely running, often requires a push-start, and somehow has got seating for 20 squished in it) and headed for Zomba, which is the nearest small city/large town. We had a lovely afternoon - a delicious lunch and great conversation with Gay, Anna, Nick, and some of Gay's friends who are also volunteering in Malawi in HIV/AIDS programs.

I officially started work this Monday. And then I officially took the day off on Tuesday. One of the MIE staff, Ester, took me to the Commons Room (canteen) for lunch and midway through the meal, I ended up breaking a filling on a stone in the rice. On Tuesday, I was taken to Blantyre, the commercial centre about 1.5 hours from Domasi, to see a dentist at the Seventh Day Adventist Hospital. I ended up having the entire filling removed and a new one put in place. I think the jarring, wobbly drive back to Domasi along the pot-holed road was more painful than the time spent in the dentist's chair. When we got back to the house, we found out that a tree had fallen on the power line which meant that there was no electricity for the rest of the day and night. I seem to have run into some bad luck those first few days.

My first week at work has been focused on becoming acquainted with MIE staff and the campus. There are close to 200 staff and I've been taken around to many of the departments by my boss, Max. Max heads up the Materials Production department and is a kind and friendly man, with a great sense of humour. I anticipate that I'm going to enjoy working with him and his team! My office is still begin sorted out with furniture and supplies, but I am enjoying the little monkey that plays outside my window each morning. I think we are equally curious about each other. Once my office is ready, I'm looking forward to diving into work. The READ Malawi project, a joint initiative between University of Texas and MIE, is well underway with several children's books already completed. I'm looking forward to learning about how I can contribute to what looks to be a strong team.

Today is Friday and we have the day off. It's Mother's Day. I've spent the day reading [Carol - thanks for recommending "Don't Let's Go to the Dogs Tonight"!], and I'll eventually make my way to my office (a 3 minute walk from the house) so I can upload this post and check emails. This afternoon, Issa, Caleb and I are planning to go for a walk and explore the neighbourhood. I went for a walk yesterday in the late afternoon to explore on my own and found a maize mill, a prison, a group of men digging sand from the river (to be mixed with cement for construction), and a tailor all within 10 minutes of my house. I wandered off the main dirt path, down smaller pathways that led to clusters of small huts and shacks and introduced myself to some of the locals. They seem to be very friendly and curious, and I look forward to getting to know them better once my language skills improve as most of they do not speak English. I'm also hoping to build a relationship with the guards that are stationed at the house, and learn more through them. And the milk-lady! There is a lovely elderly woman that comes to the house a few times a week to deliver unpasteurized milk. She doesn't speak English, so we're having fun trying to communicate through charades and sign-language.

More photos to come soon...

I want a dongle!

2010-10-06T21:49:00.000-07:00

Well, it seems that keeping in touch with family and friends is going to be an issue. I anticipated this, so I’m not too surprised – but I’m still disappointed. The internet connection is very poor in the capital city, so I imagine it will be even worse once I get to the small town of Domasi. It seems that my best option is to get a dongle. I’m not entirely sure what it is or how it works, but it seems to be a gadget you purchase from one of the 3 internet providers that plugs into your laptop and then you can purchase an internet plan or minutes. I’m hoping it helps with connectivity as I’ve only been here 3 days and I’m already frustrated when trying to connect with friends back home.

In other news…

The in-country training continues! We had another very busy day today. My brain is starting to feel rather full from all the information that is being thrown at us – and I’m fearful of how little I will eventually retain! We reviewed the fundraising policy (apparently, some of us may be asked by our partner organizations to raise funds for their projects), registered with our embassies, toured the VSO Malawi office, discussed the 3-way partnership between VSO, the partner organization and the volunteer, reviewed logistics of banking, housing, etc, and learned specifics about Malawian culture. Lots to learn and take in!

The VSO staff have been fabulous in organizing the training sessions and engaging local representatives from different organizations and sectors. They have put a lot of thought and effort into the training and it definitely comes through in the breadth and depth of topics we manage to cover each day. I’m confident that I will definitely feel more prepared by the end of this week when I set out for my placement! The other volunteers who are here with me are quickly becoming good friends and great resources! I’ve never been surrounded by so many doctors! We have 4 pediatricians, 2 general physicians, an emergency ward doctor, an end-of-life specialist, an abdominal surgeon, a psychiatrist, and about 5 others whose specialties I can’t remember! It’s fascinating to hear about the work they will be doing in Malawi and where they will be situated. I hope that once we are all settled, I’ll be able to visit some of them in their placements and see their work first-hand. I’m particularly interested in visiting Nick (a psychiatrist from the UK) and Anna (an occupational therapist from Scotland) at the Zomba Mental Hospital. Nick will be the only staff person there who is actually trained in psychiatry. The hospital is terribly understaffed and the conditions are extremely difficult and stressful. It sounds like they will be grateful to have him, especially since he has over 30 years of experience in his field. Anna is my roommate during the in-country training and it has been amazing to hear her stories about her work. She is bracing herself for what awaits at Zomba Mental Hospital, though from the sounds of it, she has worked in extreme conditions before. She spent some time volunteering as an occupational therapist at an orphanage in Tamil Nadu in India. She recalls that for over 150 orphans, there were only 3 workers. The conditions in the facility we shocking because of the lack of resources, with many of the babies heads being misshapen from being left laying in the same position for extended periods of time. She recalls it as being one of the most difficult things she has ever seen. Though I’ve only known her for a few days, she seems like an extraordinary individual and I’m sure she will rise to the challenges Malawi has in store for her! That’s one thing I quickly recognized in all my volunteering colleagues here in Malawi – everyone seems to exude such strength, resourcefulness and passion for helping others – it is both humbling and inspiring for me to be in the presence of these people!

And now for some pictures...

Outside of our hotel in the capital city of Lilongwe.

Inside our hotel which also serves as the training venue for our one week in-country training and orientation.

The VSO Malawi office.

We had a tour of the office to meet the local Malawian staff.

The view from the VSO office of 'downtown' Lilongwe. The tallest building in the capital is apparently 8 floors.

We were taken into the city centre of Lilongwe and shown some supermarkets where we could purchase food and dry goods. And apparently, poolcare - though most of us are hoping for running water, never mind a pool.

Beautiful trees along the streets. This picture doesn't do the tree flowers justice - they're actually a brilliant purple colour, so vivid that you just want to inhale and breathe in that gorgeous colour!

The journey...and arrival.

2010-10-03T09:47:00.001-07:00

I'm here. Yes, I've finally reached Malawi. After months of preparation and weeks of anticipation and anxiety, I've reached my destination.

The journey here was relatively uneventful. From Calgary, I flew to London and then on to Johannesburg, which I quickly learned, everyone refers to as “Joburg.” I like that. From Joburg, it was on to Lilongwe, the capital city of Malawi. VSO staff met me at the airport and directed me to the waiting vehicle for transporting volunteers to the hotel. I was happy and excited to see that over 20 of us had arrived! We headed to the hotel, had about an hour to rest, and then attended a brief meeting with the VSO country director. After a quick dinner of local Malawian food (my first taste of nsima – a thick maize porridge that is the staple dish!), everyone decided it was best to sleep, so off we went to rest up for the next day.

The second day was spent in training. We began bright and early at 8 am and had a full day packed with information on safety & security, accommodation, finance, meeting the VSO office staff, language training (which depends on which part of Malawi you are going to as there are several local languages), and a 1-1 session with the program manager. VSO focuses on 4 different program areas in Malawi - education, health, secure livelihoods, and HIV/AIDS. In Malawi, the health and HIV/AIDS programs are the largest and most of the volunteers I arrived with will be working in these areas, as they are doctors. In the education area, there are only 2 new volunteers – Mark (from Australia) and myself. I think there are 9 other volunteers already in Malawi working in education.

After our training, we were taken for a visit into town. VSO staff helped us buy SIM cards and set up our mobile phones. Then we went to a few shops to see what was available, so we could begin planning what we need to buy or prepare for our new homes. I was shocked to see the amount and variety of goods available in the shops we went to. In hindsight, I may have over-packed as I anticipated I wouldn’t have access to many products I normally use. Also, I’m relieved to learn that I will not be alone! I am the only new volunteer with a placement in Domasi, which is very close to Zomba, the closest city (though it recently was a town). Two other new volunteers - Anna (an occupational therapist from the UK) and Nick (a psychiatrist also from the UK) - will be working at the mental hospital in Zomba. That gives me hope for friendship, support and some sort of a social life. I’m thankful that my placement will be near one of the most beautiful places in Malawi! My little guidebook says that Zomba is “often claimed to have been the most beautiful capital city anywhere in the British Empire.” At the start of our training, we introduced ourselves to the entire group and stated the location of our placement and then the VSO Malawian staff told us a bit about our location. Well, it sounds like one of the volunteers is headed to what the locals called the “Dust Bowl” and another is going to the “Armpit of Africa.” I really hope I get to visit them and see what that’s all about.

The Brains (& Beauty) Behind The Blog

2010-09-05T20:44:00.000-07:00

I guess it's obvious from the title of this post that I didn't create this blog all on my own. Given the great feedback I've been receiving from all of you, I thought it was time to fess up and give credit where credit is due. So who is the brains & beauty behind the blog?

Well, while I did create the original 'shell' for this blog, it sure wasn't pretty. Let's jus say it was 'functional.' My amazingly talented friend Kristin offered up her mad web & graphic design skills and that was an offer I was not foolish enough to refuse. I left her (and Bobbles) to it - and a few days later, she took my sad little blog and transformed it into a blog beyond my expectations! (I really wish I had before and after pictures to insert here.)

Kristin & Bobbles hard at work.

A HUGE thank you to Kristin for her hard work, countless hours, patience, and creativity in putting together this blog! Thanks for making my blog a happier place to visit.

My strongest supporter: Carla!

2010-08-23T07:23:00.001-07:00

Carla & Bobbles posing outside Carla's garden oasis

“Who is that!? She’s so full of life and energy! She’s so wild and carefree! She’s so loud and funny! Man, is she ever nice.” - Typical remarks by someone meeting Carla for the first time.

I met Carla years ago, in a class during my second year of university. She says that she was drawn to me because of my “incredibly sad eyes.” (At the time, I had no idea my eyes gave me away). I was drawn to her by this aura of sheer happiness that she seemed to unknowingly exude. Up to that day, - and even since - I had never met someone who was so positive, so full of energy, and so appreciative of life. I recall being drawn to her – but also very intimidated by this woman who seemed to effortlessly enter any room or conversation with her bigger-than-life self, her peals of laughter, her whole-hearteded positive outlook, and her honest remarks.

I must admit that I have to attribute many of my successes to Carla. With Carla's help, I became a better gardner, a better cook, a kinder person and a more confident woman. My crêpe, alfredo sauce, and vegetarian lasagna recipes all originated in Carla's kitchen. Her kitchen was also the place I made bread from scratch for the very first time. She was even able to do what no other human being was able to do - teach me how to swim. If ever there was an example of extreme patience, this is it. Every single time I went snorkelling or diving in the Maldives, all I could think was 'if only she could see me now!'

Over the years, our friendship has grown, and the mother of six I met in university is now a grandmother of seventeen. Yes, seventeen. I think that number alone is a testament to what kind of mother Carla is – one that has imparted the value of life and love. And in many ways, Carla has had a ‘mothering effect’ on me as well. Carla has taught me many, many things about life – not by ‘teaching’ per se, but rather by demonstrating. Through Carla, I have learned what boundless love is, the power and pain of forgiveness, the challenge of self-love and most of all, the importance of giving.

I try to visit Carla at least once a year, and each time I see her, I’m always struck by her capacity to give. It’s like she’s a bottomless well of giving. She gives to her husband, her children, her grandchildren, her family, her extended family, her church, her neighbors, her community, strangers, stray animals – and I don’t mean she gives like you and I give a bit of our time, money, or energy. I mean this woman really gives. When Carla gives, you stop dead in your tracks and you feel it. You are moved. You are changed. That’s how good she is at giving. She has mastered the art of giving. And this has inspired me to stretch myself in the ways that I give….and this led to my decision to volunteer abroad for a year with VSO. Carla has been an integral part of my decision to volunteer and focus on how I can give, share and contribute – and hopefully, in my placement in Malawi, I will have even a fraction of the impact she has had on me.

Without being asked, Carla and her husband Dave have decided to financially contribute to my volunteer journey. The very first donation I've received! Even more amazingly, they have been extremely generous in their contribution of love and support. It’s so very comforting to know that I will be in their thoughts and prayers as I venture forth…and that each time I visit them, I will hear the words “Welcome home, Moni.”